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I still have parts but I probably won't be making the swap, I got my old car back & it already was O/D... Since the green car is a numbers matching R/T Vert I'm thinking it's best I leave it stock & use the red car for the longer drives....
Actually since the red car is a clone I'm in the...
The point is with leaf springs, especially with Mopar leaf springs with their short front segment the rear tends to stay fairly flat and a rear bar can induce oversteer... Another way of describing oversteer is it tends to make the car tail happy... Tail happy can be fun if your paying...
And that is why I keep telling people on a toy you can be a bit more aggressive with your alignment & tire selection.... It's not like your gonna wear the tires out in a year on the street...
Track is different, you can push harder without getting arrested... But if your hitting the track you...
On my red Challenger I powered my twin two speed electric fans with a pair of HD relays rated for 100 amps each, necessary? No... But I've seen to many fan relays smoked to risk my engines cooling on undersized relays...
Not a bad choice... Though honestly as Don suggested earlier chokes have simply been tied to switched power at the ballast resistor for the last fifty years...
Use a HD relay to power the fan & don't worry about the choke..
Once the car is running he'll want to keep the choke heater running or the choke may close gain.. And he'll want to be able to cycle the fan based on coolant temp..
He could trigger one relay that powers the choke and powers the trigger circuit of a second relay... Then once again ground the...
As Don said, choke has a bimetallic spring... For those not familiar with the concept of a bimetallic spring as the name implies there are two dissimilar metals bonded together, one metal is selected due to it's property of expanding rapidly when heat is applied, the other metal is chosen...
Accept what the OP wants to do is straight up use that terminal as the trigger.. No other switch.... And he car 100% do that.... Essentially creating a switched power buss...
But my earlier point was why use a terminal inside the car to trigger a relay in the engine compartment when there are...
Since both items you want to power are located under the hood and the alternator/battery are under the hood it makes zero sense to try to tie them to the fuse box... Not to mention the fuse box will never live if your trying to power a fan off of it.. To many amps...
After looking at Delta Pag...
I've done better than that with stock A arms & offset bushings.... Last one I did was over 4.5 on both sides... But FWIW 3.0 should drive pretty good....
Rear bar is the same, Greg's hardware isn't bent... He's swapped out the ridgid connector links with a Moog link that has swivel ball sockets on each end...
70 is different, 69 & earlier the front sway bar was mounted forward of the K frame... Beginning with the 70 model year the front sway bar passes through the K frame...
On your fuel level gauge issue.... You have the Holley tank which I'm guessing means means you have a five bolt style sending unit?
If so and you have this style sending unit...
I've had about zero luck getting a decent reading from that sender....
So when I saw this style sender was...
I'm using 2004 Dakota seats in one of my projects... The width was within 1" of the original seat, Much more comfortable, good support... I cut the head rests off & had them re-upholstered using the original design so it conforms to the foam... Oh BTW Cup Holders!!! :lol: