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I replaced the switch in my GTX twice last spring with the aftermarket stuff. I would say they are generally junk and do not work the way the originals were intended (just my opinion).

I am looking to replace the battery in my GTX. The current battery has the two rectangular caps that stick up on top (not like the old style). I bought one of the battery toppers for making the battery look like the original style. Wondering what type flat top batteries you guys are running that...

Not exactly because I have the strange issue with how the steering wheel seats on the column. Plus during this process I discovered that the brake light switch does not make contact with the brake pedal to disengage the lights when pushed in. It's not certain that the switch is the problem, but...

Yeah, I have a new turn signal switch on the way. I have a suspicion that the problem is linked there somewhere. It may also be tied to that weird gap in the column between the wheel and column collar that I cannot seem to figure out. But the column will probably come out next week and be gone...

Did a little troubleshooting today. Disconnected the rear harness at the kick panel, and the fuse still blows when the brake light switch is connected. I believe I have isolated this to the space between the fuse box, turn signal switch and brake light switch. At least I eliminated anything at...

So I pulled the fuse that keeps blowing. Ran the test light across the connections and it glows bright, so I should interpret this as a short in the line somewhere? I certainly hope that I don't have to pull the whole harness out. Will start at the back with the tail lamps. As I mentioned, the...

I have been dealing with an electrical situation on the GTX. I noticed that the brake lights don't work. There are actually two problems. One is the switch doesn't make contact with the brake pedal to turn the lights off. That I can address. However, when the brake light switch is connected it...

The black wire runs down under the car, has a connector (like it is rigged up) and changes to a gray wire. That wire then appears to have been taped up into the wrap for the wires coming out of the neutral safety switch. The neutral safety switch at the transmission looks right. I followed it up...

So if there is no tach, then the gray wire is just a dead end? The black wire appears to go down under the car, but I did not get under to follow it. Guess that would be the next step. It just looks to be hanging with no apparent connection. It obviously doesn't fit in any factory connector...

As part of my exploration under the hood on my 69 GTX, I discovered these couple of wires dangling. Any thoughts on what they are or where they go? I have read through the wiring diagram in the service manual, but this is admittedly my weak spot with these cars. The black wire (yellow arrow)...

Exactly what I needed to know. So if my car had a build date of May 26, then I would like for something around week 21 or 22?

I am looking at taking the aftermarket ignition coil off of my Road Runner, and I have a question about the replacement. When scrolling through the many options on Year One, I was checking out the section on "date coded" ignition coils. Can someone explain to me how that coding works or what...