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You can use different pistons. You need to make sure the piston pin size is correct for the rods you have. If the new pistons are a different weight it will throw off the balance, so the assembly might need to be rebalanced.

If stock converter, and less than 9:1 compression I would just use the small duration Hughes cam HUG SEH0610AL-13. The dual exhaust and 4-bbl alone will wake up a 318 with a stock cam. The hughes cam has more area under the lift profile. It lifts the valve faster and higher, but not much...

As mentioned, its just the motor mounts. Haven't used to 440 source ones. Have used the Anchor mounts, and never again. They are junk. The nuts were welded off center of the bolt hole.

Which KB pistons? Flat top? The quench dome pistons are a different story. Not even sure they have them for that engine?

Check that the block and heads are flat for gasket sealing. If it is a stock block, most likely it won't be perfectly "square", as in same height front to back and side to side. If you mean cutting the heads or block for compression, that can be done. If doing that, need to also cut the intake...

One of the reasons the 451 stroker was popular using the 440 crank and 440 rods is the pistons are almost 1/2 the weight which is good for performance and durability. It was also pretty affordable. Later when the inexpensive stroker kits arrived, they were a very good value. Inflation has...

383 or 440? Converters have come a long way. A "tight" high stall converter does not have to feel loose in normal driving, but won't hit as hard at the track. Speak with the companies that make custom torque converters and discuss your build with them to see what they offer. I'm currently...

If using them, the exhaust seats are not hardened for unleaded gas. Should use a gas additive or have hardened seats installed. It's fairly common to rebuild with larger 2.14"/1.81" valves when porting the heads for performance.

Try bypassing the fuel tank and lines by just hooking a flexible fuel line to the pump inlet and the other end in a gas can. If that fixes the problem, then you will need to check the lines and tank. Once, I found the rubber line that connects the fuel tank to the hard fuel line was partly...

Older style green bearings that don't allow for flexing like the newer versions with the snap ring. Biggest install problem I have seen is when the diff pin is retained, the axles will be just slightly too long. You can tighten the bearings down, but the rollers will be loaded towards the...

most likely it can be rebuilt unless the caps/adjusters are totally rotted away

The altitude kills vacuum readings, the reading is actually pressure differential. I don't think I have seen 15+ inches of vacuum on any of my older V-8 engines at 6,000 ft altitude. Connecting the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum should help idle / low speed compared to the ported vacuum...

Why I was mentioning tuning the idle/transition circuit is that at low speeds, under around 40 MPH, with a large carb you are mostly running on the transition circuit and really not into the main metering because the throttle blades are just slightly cracked open. A smaller carb will hurt...

You likely need at least 16 degrees initial timing. I usually run a lower vacuum power valve at these high altitudes. Make sure fuel pressure and float level are correct. Now, the real stuff. Pull carb and check how much of the transition slot is exposed. It's not unusual to have to drill the...

I though about getting the next larger size cam, my 505 stroker is about 10.3:1 compression, and the XE286HR-10 has plenty of low end torque. I can shift to the 5th gear overdrive (5-speed manual Legend Gear and Transmission 700 transmission) at 1,500 RPM (about 50 MPH) and still accelerate...

I googled those pistons and they are flat tops. I think your compression ratio is about 1/2 point higher than you think. The 505" 440 stroker in my Coronet has the same Comp XR286HR-10 cam. That engine has 440 source stealth heads and Icon 17cc dish pistons, so it has a little bit of quench...

I recommend the RedLine synthetic gear oils. Red Line Synthetic Oil. Gear Oil I have no association with them, just been using their products for over 30 years after switching from Amsoil. Amsoil is good too, but back in the 1980's you had to get it through their multi-level distributors List...

Use plenty of penetrating oil on the park cable bolt. Good info here: Mopar Push-button transmission tech tips

No gasket on double sided nut, just the large outer seal under the plate. You can tap the center part of the plate down with a hammer a bit from the back side if it contacts the block before pulling tight on the outer part of the plate to block gasket.

In my post above I should have posted the valve open close events in the comparison because the intake closing point can also effect idle and cylinder pressure. Example: 1. 260/260 degree (@0.006"), 106 LSA (installed split overlap 106) IO: 24 IC: 56 EO: 56 EC: 24 Overlap: 48 2. 272/272 degree...