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The ground should be provided by the bracket sandwiched between the nuts and the fender.

I may go that route if need be, thanks.

So who is making a restoration battery these day ? Seems like they come and go.

Be sure to double check everything. I had a few wires swapped around on the last one I had ordered. The colors were correct, just that the pins were in the wrong place on the connectors. Easier to find when it's still on the bench.

Posted for clarity. But hey, you do you.

On the engine side, power comes from the bulkhead connector "D" - to the trans switch and back to "C" where it is jumpered to "Z". Under the dash "C" continues on to the reverse lights and "Z" would go to the dash light.

Yep. This is what I did and mounted them on the cross brace between the rear wheel wells. They are hidden by the well liner but easily accessed from the trunk should one **** the bed.

Like Don said, it should be a bolt and a stud if it's still original. And that's a big if. If you 're sure you have the correct fasteners off, then a few taps with a mallet should free it up, but really, if it is indeed two bolts and you have them both out, the damn thing should just about...

And be careful when prying the wiring harness off of the back of the switches. The contacts can be brittle DAMHIK.

The passenger side switch receives it's ground from the master switch, so I'd check there to start.

I use a small 12v dry cell to test stuff, but I run it off of a circuit breaker should something be/get grounded. Keeps the light show to a minimum.

I spoke to him this morning, no worries.

My bad, I was looking for '65-'68 switches. I missed the OP had a '69.

Interesting. I have not been able to find them, eBay or otherwise.

Who sells these ?

Old thread I know..... But beware, apparently Dorman has a few versions of this motor out there all carrying the same 742-300/1 part number. Some will not physically bolt up to your regulator. YMMV.

True

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This is from a '68 Sport Satellite convertible

Yup.