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Hell yeah. I've bought loads of stuff at the price I first offered 3 months before once seller realises my offer was realistic and better than the others he got...
Amen to that.
They had their place, but that place wasn't much inside the home as outdoor where the dull start up, inability to dim and horrid CRI didn't matter so much. At least they were far more energy efficient than incandescent.
I love LEDs, I have them pretty much everywhere..
L and R refer to left or right hand thread and not which side of the car they go.
A tie-rod assembly has an inner tie-rod end (LH thread) and the outer tie-rod end (RH thread).
As HR above said, inners go on draglink, outers go on BJ.
Depending on which computer I'm on, open pic with Photoshop or even Microsoft Paint or what ever other photo edit software, re-size, save and post...
At a pinch, you can even upload pics to a free on-line photo edit website and re-save them.. (search "free online photo editor")
That's at Seaworld I reckon. (Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia) was there a few years ago when the kids were youngens. Great show, those dolphins are amazing.
Think twice Dick, they will poo in your pool..
evidence that what was said earlier is the case here -
I would say your carb should/could be jetted/adjusted using an AFR as it's likely holding back your motor. Or get a performance aftermarket carb that's sized right that will likely be real close to ideal ootb.
Yep vacuum will increase as you increase idle speed. Nobody could tell you the correct idle speed for your combination with any accuracy as it's dependent on so many factors. Luckily for you with a 4 speed, at least you don't need to worry about converter load-up etc. I'd say 800-850 with your...
OK, I've had a good think about this.
The answer is No.
Advancing the crank sprocket 2° will actually move the cam 1°, but cam degrees are not what are measured, checked or quoted.
Cam timing events are always measured, checked or quoted in crank degrees, not cam degrees. When degreeing in a...