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EDE stopped making those not long after introduced. Everyone hated them.

You could also make your own.

My first Dana was from an A12 car. It was a 23 spline version. My understanding is that those used in in the '70 model year cars began to get the 35 spline version. Again a transition year.

That is a very interesting and helpful chart. IIRC the 35 spline started in the '70 model year cars, So I guess that started in late '69.

In the '70's Mopar sold the 1330 U joint on their build the drive shaft package.

Have a new one built. Why settle for a 50 year old part?

The pics of the car look beautiful. Unless you are intending on a concours quality show care. The year/version of the 440 won't matter. If you find a good motor go for it. Again, it's no problem to upgrade the small valve 915's to the larger valve.

It's no big deal to put the larger valves in the small valve 915's. I've done it several times. Actually used 2.14/181 in mine. But I had done more than a bit of porting. Todays race style valve jobs do can most of the porting needed. I'll look to see what 915's I have in the attic.

Too bad, each of '70 or '71 iron manifolds went to the scrap yard soon after I got them. My A12 aluminum was good. Boy times have changed.

That appears to be a 2nd gen Torker. Torker II was the next gen as I recall. All are real good manifolds. Although I was always a Tarantula guy. I believe the single plane manifolds were much better on street combos than were ever given credit for.

Ovaled head bolt holes are not a big deal. Use the correct size washers to get the tight fit. All depends on how the ports line up. I always checked mine with a bent coat hanger to check the fit of the port at the head.

Maybe, but not every part on a car is date stamped. I may be wrong, but I don't think any U joint straps I had were dated.

I wonder why in the hell would a vendor take the time & effort to date stamp a part like that.

Damn, never noticed any of mine date coded.

Aren't those the same? Maybe a dumb question, but I'm not a numbers guy.

Well I broke an OEM one that was only about 10 years old with a little less than 500 HP. It seemed in good shape to me at the time.

Get a new one made. 50 year old driveshafts are a gamble. You don't want to lose that gamble. I'm sure you have driveshaft shops in your area. Decide how much power/torque you want to control, then pick the diameter & thickness.

If you need a single four top let me know. Those TR's work great.

What CR are you looking for?

Good luck, my '69 setup was a morphed deal, but my later '70 stock setup worked very well on my A12 intake. The '70 carbs still needed the tinkering, but were very good.