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I'm happy you have good results. Not like mine.

My Satellite was intended to be a street cruiser. The KYB's gas shocks were very harsh. As I moved to more of a drag race mode I switched to the CE drag shocks, set on the "stiff" setting. On the street I was amazed how much smoother the car rode. My street tires are radials. Just my experience.

IMHO the KYB shocks that came with my '66 Satellite were harsh, could feel every crack in the pavement. I switched to CE drag shocks, MUCH smoother ride on the street. Go figure.

Those do like a "I made it fit". I've done that myself many times, but NEVER on brakes. LOL

In the 70's & 80's one of my local parts shops did brake work. I had them arch my various brake shoes for both my daily driver '70 Barracuda and my drag car. I was able to watch the process. It was very informative. No "break in" period required.

What are you using the car for? Back in the day on my drag car I used the cheapest shoes. Soft but had enough grip. I was not concerned about durability. They were easy on the drums. Quality shoes would wear the drums. But that was for a drag car. Modern HP shoes for a hard driven street car...

IIRC the Hemi package had the largest diameter OEM torsion bars (I forget the diameter), the extra leaf and halve leaf right side rear spring is a major improvement for high toque/HP cars. The spring rates were also higher. Rear spring designs were later used as the XHD package, a great combo.

The Mancini bolts work very well on my Dana axles.

A while ago I got some from Mancini. If I recall the Moroso version too,

If the object is just a higher rear height, go to the local spring shop, presuming there is one, ask them to add some arch. In '74 gave them my estimate, turned out to be way to high. Took the springs back, asked them to take some arch out. Worked good. I played with lots of leaf combinations...

They were always my favorite. Wish I had them on my street '70 Barracuda. Had a set on my '65 Coronet drag car for a few years before I went to Centerlines.

My bet is that ESPO (Springs & Things) can give you what ever you want. They are really top quality.

Back in the '70's we did 2x3 connectors on my '65 Dodge. Cut through the floor pan with very tight fit. We mover the springs into the frame rails at the same time. Cut the front out of the rear subframe and slid the 2x3 into the rear subframe and rosette welded it. The 2x3 was welded the entire...

The KYB's that came on my Satellite were very rough. I could feel every crack in the road. As started to convert the car to more of a drag car, I installed Comp Engineering 3 ways. Amazing difference on the street. So much smoother I couldn't believe it.

I agree with Magnes, you will be very happy with EPSO springs. They were real good on the street and did just fine at the strip.

I did.

The number of leafs needed is simply a factor of how much torque will be applied. More torque = more leafs. You set the arc based on the preferred ride height.

Finding a good frame shop can be amazing.

If your has 6 leaf springs, use them. If you want lower the car, a good local spring shop can de-arch them.

Back in the day, most alignment shops didn't really how to do a Mopar as far as could tell. With my Coronet I wanted max caster to go straight. They didn't really know how to do that. Only one guy I found. With my tube Arrow, I did the alignment in my garage. White markers on each side of tires...