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Ya, mine were both the style with the rear tube going out through the wheel well. My Coronet had been cut for that.

The Hooker looks like a great deal. Back in the day I ran the adjustable Hookers on my '65 Coronet. I mostly ran the 2" primary on my 426 or 440 motors. I did try the 2 1/8" style to. The 2 1/8" didn't provide any real improvement compared to the 2". I'm pretty sure the 2 1/8 would like a...

Looks as close to an RT as you get, without the badges.

In my drag cars the best was a SW Direct Connection mechanical with the Hemi distributor. My current Autometer acts very well.

I'm a stupid *** for selling my old Sun Super tach for $75 a couple years ago. Oh well! I wonder if my mid 70's DC SW mechanical tach is now worth $1 million?

Get the factory service manual, it will help with SO MANY things. I fought with my OEM 2BBL on my daily driver '70 383 for a couple years. It revolved around two issues, the choke operation and the accelerator pump operation. I suspect you are having much the same issues. Choke operation can be...

There are 2 thread sizes used on Mopar TC's. IIRC the 5/16 the normal "standard" size, however the larger Hemi size (7/16?) is used on many/most aftermarket convertors. The thin head design is REQUIRED. The ARP bolts are excellent.

Adapters are scary. I used 1/4" home made spacers on my '65 Coronet drag car for a couple years with a couple different wheels. The dvw comments are right on. Proper torque to get the clamping force is the key.

Much of what UT says in this vid makes sense, but I think he severely overstated the spun rod bearing issue. I never spun a rod bearing in my '65 Coronet drag car which left very hard, in at least 2000 runs with a 402 pan 2"deeper. Excessive RPM is what kills a Mopar bottom end, especially with...

I doubt Uncle Tony has ever built a BB body and raced it. I have and know his opinion is just plain BS.

The sump location is not a FATAL FLAW. In my '65 Coronet BB I ran a 906 pan that was 2" deeper with the stock pickup extended. Well over a thousand runs at 7000 RPM or more. Rod bearings remained intact.

My opinion remains the same Uncle Tony doesn't know Mopars. My 7000+RPM rod bearings never failed. He can stick to bowties. Edit: If he was lifelong Mopar guy, how could he say that the oil pan was the flaw? Heavy pistons combined with excessive RPM were a problem. Never a rod bearing problem...

It seems to me that Uncle Tony is a dufus. I would not pay attention to much he has to say.

Have to laugh, almost pulling the motor to change a spark plug!!

A BB Mopar may not be the easiest to change plugs, but once you get the right tools and a little experience not too difficult.

I had my drag cars spinning 7,000 plus RPM and never spun a rod bearing. The steel crank would wear out, rod bearings never did.

obviously a bad build.

My line locks have been after the distribution block, so it only affects the front brakes. Never had a problem.

With my Barracuda I was young and invincible. However I roofed my Arrow drag car, 3" lap belt, 2" cross shoulder straps, crotch belt. Two rolls and three endo's and a couple more rolls. The belts worked great. No damage to me. Car was destroyed.

My Satellite has SFI belts, 3" lap belt, 2" cross shoulder belts, crotch belt that I don't normally use. Drag racing stuff. Sure good enough for the street. Back in the day with my '70 Barracuda I always used the OEM lap belt, I only used the OEM shoulder belts if I planned on going 100 MPH.