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With #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke, you can find which point on the cap that the rotor is pointing. From this point, one inch of marked rotation " measured at the cap" will get you on the money for startup and likely to be within a degree of ignition advance.

Here's one for ya..... When you build a BB Mopar, get the engine at a point where the timing dots are lined up on the crank and cam.... Don't turn the engine anymore at this point it's at TDC on exhaust stroke,,, bolt on the rest of your accessory items to the point in which your dist can be...

My point exactly,,, You can probably find several reference pictures, and Standard location positions depending on the source... A manufactures manual for that make / model and year would likely be correct to factory specs, if you want to have it look like original...

You guys are making more of this than there really is... The dist turns 360 deg regardless of where you start #1... Its still the same distance between each plug wire on the cap..... No magic to it,,, no extra stuff to consider,,,, The only reason to set this in any particular location is simply...

I do the same thing.... I'm not a purist though, and I use performance aftermarket ignition parts so where I start #1 doesn't amount to a hill of beens.... I don't even have a vac advance can to consider, so it's a simple drop it in and wire it up for me...

Vacuum leak at the carb base...

Probably had a spare light bulb and a roll of wire,,,, could have thrown that at it too... My point is this..... Testing components is a MUCH better way to diagnose troubles in electrical circuits.... Sure you can start throwing parts at things,,,, but where do you start if you test nothing...

Yep,,, you knew it was bad.... And it had to be grounded too because you said so..... Boy your smart! BTW my remark was to have him TEST the thing before being a brilliant parts changer like you apparently...

My ammeter jumps with the turn signals too..... Voltage "Should" remain pretty constant, with an increase in Amperage as the vehicles electronics demand more from your charging system.... That's why your Ammeter bounces around with flashers in sequence... Kinda like watching a metronome...

BTW,,,, If your ground (-) cable is going from the battery to the engine, you WILL need the ground strap from the engine to the firewall.... This gives the body the ground required to operate things such as headlamps... - - - Updated - - - Why???? With a meter you can ohm from the input...

I just checked a 67 schematic, and didn't see any grounding on the dimmer switch..... Looks like the dimmer controls the 12V+ by using power from the headlight switch (Light Green Terminal "H") Then from the dimmer switch on either the Red or Black lead depending on dimmer switch position. From...

You sure about that???

Not at the moment.... I could get some in a day or two though....

The gap isn't the concern so much. Its where the roll pin lines up when installing the reluctor. There s a point for cw and cc rotation, and this is different between SB and BB engines. They use the same part number for reluctor and provide two different installation configurations depending on...

Damn auto correct! Reluctor......

You can drop in the dist in any position, as long as #1 is on the respective cap location. No real such thing as dist drive gear one tooth off. The only Trouble you might run in to is a plug wire being to short to reach across the cap, or the vac advance canister might hit something if you have...

I agree,,, Having a switch "fused", and relays running the devices "Fused", is the only way to go!

For the new guys, I am bumping this Old thread of mine...... You never know who can use this info...

Glad to help....

The control side of the relay should pull very little Amperage! The thermostat should be on the control side (where I show a switch in the drawing). You'll notice that I fused the switch power (this controls the relay) at 1 Amp. A 25 Amp stat is 25 times higher than my little 1 Amp fuse and...