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Are you could open the door, put out a step stool, close the door, place step stool in bed. Easy peasy.

You could cut a little out of the front coils and could also buy shorter blocks for the rear that might help some.

I just turn mine off after I make a turn. Not a big deal most of the older semi trucks I drove didn’t have turn signal cancel.

Id fine one that wasn’t made of chinesium. Removing and reinstalling trans is to much work just to replace throwout bearing.

Fix the factory 440. You don’t race, you don’t drive it that much. Unless you got 10k burning a whole in your pocket forget the stroker kit.

It wont hurt anything. I’m just saying it might not result in your intended outcome.

Please do some reading on the amount of detergent in ATF. Transmissions don’t have a combustion process taking place, not much need for very much detergent. I think you’ll find your better off just changing the oil.

You know they don’t have to salt roads. Theres a few northern states that don’t, South Dakota pops into my head. I wish they would stop salting, I maybe more persuaded to move back there. I hate rusty vehicles.

Not sure about the air box. I recently used acetone to remove old spray paint from a set of police wheels. It didn’t seem to affect the factory coating. Test a small spot for sure.

Im sure Holley doesn’t know how t tune the carbs it designed. I think I’d try a vacuum secondary carb. I hope you get it worked out. I was very frustrated with an afb a one time. Found it had the wrong top gasket.

I thought the power valve was supposed to be half of idle vacuum as a rule of thumb. I believe yours maybe open at idle and your jetting is compensating for it. You may need to go down on your pri and secondary a few sizes then stick something in there around 5 and see what that does.

Yep you need more fuel when your opening the secondaries. I bet if you roll into it no stumble? Auto or manual transmission? Rule of thumb has been vacuum secondaries on automatic, manual secondaries on manual trans.

Id be tempted to remove head gaskets and go thinner to tighten quench. Ive run higher on performance small engines on pump gas. Tight quench though.

I don’t follow the mechanics or logic of having to do green bearings for disk brakes. It seems to me that both disk snd drum have 1 job thats stopping the car neither one locate the axle in any form that im aware of. Please enlighten me.

I really wonder how much torsional twist sub frame connectors really do? To rails in a parallel don’t do much for twisting. I believe you really need to tie front and rear together in a X to limit twist. If I was replacing rockers in a uni body I’d add the plates they put in the convertible...

I was thinking the green headliner might be a nice contrast

The wife’s 2016 Chrysler 300 is very nice, serms dependable though she has only 70k on it. The penastar v-6 runs very nice andd regularly gets 30+mpg on road trips. Its a little techy for me but she’s happy. And its RWD i wont have a FWD for poor road conditions.

I don’t know what the problem is with ethanol in gas? I’ve been using it it cars and small engines since 1990. I can’t say I’ve had one part or engine failure do to ethanol. I’m like gentleman above I wish it was easier to find E85. I’d set the 68 up to burn it exclusively.

Ive sure been thinking about coverting the 383 in the coronet when I get the floors done. I think a person really needs to increase compression ratio to take full advantage of E-85.