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I was able to position my AFR gauge, tach, vacuum gauge into a lesser extent the speedometer and was able to take video with phone. This really helped me see the different fuel circuits and when and how they came on or didn't. But after you got in ballpark it's real nice and easy to see the type...
You can also crack open the secondaries a touch. And if you still need more air, close the secondaries in the primaries to make sure you're in the transition slot. But yes, always start small.
That is very true and it is much easier not running a return line, but I have run into a couple of instances where I got some odd pressure spikes that was fixed by a return line.
I have done this very thing that the OP asked. I used a fuel pump from an '06 Jeep SRT8 and added it to a new fuel pump sender in my '72RR. I used a short piece of hose to connect the pump to the fuel sender. I ordered the fuel sender with the return line installed. And then added a bulkhead...
Also make sure your grounds are in very good shape. Battery to body, block, heads, and anywhere in between. Good clean preferably with my own corrosive grease on all the joints.
I believe it is righted at the injector flow at a rated pressure. So if you up the pressure you'll potentially get more flow. Have to check with a manufacturer though.
I'm running a pump on a factory sending unit with an added return line. The pump has a sock on it. It pressures the system good when the tank is full and down to about 1/2 tank. Below that the fuel sloshes and I get fuel pressure pressure fluctuations.
I've been looking at a custom tank with...