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I cleaned mine with an ultrasonic cleaner but if you don't have access to one use some electrical contact cleaner.

If the cars blown apart complete wiring job isn't hard, get new replacement/OEM style harnesses from M&H, plug and play it's not difficult at all. I replaced all the wiring in my Charger, I felt it was cheap insurance against 50+ year old wiring.

I'm having the same issue. The pigtail from the dash and the harness in the console have to have a mid-harness of some sort. The plug from the dash(power) is a 4 pin plug and the harness in the console is a 6 pin plug. Looking at the wiring diagram it clearly shows a mid-harness. I'm trying to...

I think everything up to 1972 were points, so anything later would be electronic ignition

Ill dig mine out and try to post

I would trouble shoot the problem by starting with the simple stuff. Make sure the plug wires are getting juice to the plugs, if so then that's one of the variables to cross off the list and start looking else where. After that I would make sure the ECM isn't going south on you. Keep it simple...

I would do a quick continuity test on those "dead" wires, could be wire came out from the terminal at the plug boot.

The canister under the battery tray on a 68 Charger is for the headlight doors, not emissions.

My thinking is if your gonna do a job might as well do it right. Wires, fuel and brake lines are things you wont need to worry about when your thrashing on your MoPar restoration or just getting the beast road worthy again, take care of the basics you'll be less stressed in the long run knowing...

Man you guys have a LOT of patience. I just upped and had M&H replacement harnesses for my car. Clean, new wires and connectors...priceless compared to a burnt down Mopar... New wires= cheap insurance in my opinion

Ignition issues, ECU, dizzy maybe going south... check for vacuum leaks. Never said how old the build was or what carb.

Dude, listen to threewood, get you a schematic for your car and do it right. Electrical car fires suck balls...you don't want to burn it to the ground

x2, they did excellent work on mine

Great job on the vid..:poke:

Some really good suggestions here, however I've run into that issue before and found that my timing chain was worn causing the timing to jump around a bit when it wasn't under load, went away when you squeezed down on the loud peddle. Sounds like a Saturday afternoon and a twelve pack kinda...

Might do you some good to track down your ground sources, making sure they are clean and tight. Bulkhead shouldn't be a issue unless its like a 50 year old bulkhead or it's been hacked on, if so then you get to have some fun... Personally I start with the cheap easy stuff then work my way up to...

If they're shielded carbon core suppressor wires and have the right resistance they will work fine with the electronic ignition. Solid core wire emits RF that can cause grief for some electronic ignitions....been my experience.

Bearman has a point about alt. pulley diameter. The bigger pulley will turn the alt. slower and as you decrease the diameter of the pulley the faster it will turn if I recall my geometry correctly, therefore raising the amp output.