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Didn’t know if I’d like them but I absolutely love the digi tails. I’ve replaced about every bulb in the car with LED,s also.

Firecore

Exactly. How many times has this been covered before and I have even posted the draw of the LED lights after I did my research. The world famous headlight relay is dead unless you just want to run the old school lights.

The Tuff Stuff 130 amp alt. is as good as you can get for low amp RPM alt and keeping it to look like a Chrysler Alt. but the Power Master 160 Amp which looks like an old GMC Alt puts out almost twice the low RPM output than the Tuff Stuff does. Ask me how I know. I was running the tuff stuff...

But the 5-3/4” headlights fit right in without any modifications. Just got my digitails installed yesterday. That completed all LED lights in my car from the inside out.

I put the same retro thumbwheel in my 70 Charger and I absolutely love it. I love the Bluetooth, phone speaker and the dual USB ports. I cut my package tray a tad to make my 6x9 kickers work better but I think you can buy the correct size speakers. I did away with the center speaker dash because...

Yeah. Tie the 2 wires together that went to ammeter. Some people solder them together but I put a stud ring on both ends and bolted them together so I can is use it as a key off hot 12v only for low amperage and of course with an inline fuse. Putting stud rings on them just makes it quicker for...

Yes and did away with the 2 field wires that went to the Alternator but make sure you ground that alternator to the frame with the same size 4 gauge battery.

Yes that’s both sides of the ballast resistor. Tie both sides together and that’s a good key on source.

I’ve ran both regulators, a solid state external and 1 wire internal. No RFi from either one but I currently run a 160 amp 1 wire powermaster that has 100 idling amps, you’ll need that kind of alternator if you plan on running e-fans. Im assuming you’re going to run a a voltmeter. Run a 4 gauge...

Doesn’t look nothing like the one in my 70 Charger, don’t know if 69 is the same or not.

Yeah I know that, kind of lol. It’s kind of like an electrical fan relay. When you’re running carbs you control the fans with a power circuit but when you’re running efi you have to control it with a ground circuit but I’m definitely no electrical genius, far from it but I’m kind of loss in what...

Im thinking the digi-tail relay has reverse polarity built in them.

You don’t need any special relays or grounding to run led head lights lol. The only reason you need to upgrade any relay under your dash, turn signal and flasher relay, is if you want to run led park lights and led turn signals and then that’s when you ground the relay. 5 3/4” led headlights...

Nah. They’re still the best. They moved to Mexico in the late 2000,s. I still have a Bluetop cranking battery in my boat that’s 13 years old and my yellow top that is 5 years old They both still hold a charge like new and Nothing about their quality has changed despite claims they’re not as good...

Some people don’t like them but I use a yellow top D3478 Optima. It’s one of the best batteries made for electronics. I got a sniper, vintage air, Dakota Digital gauges, 2800 cfm dual spal fans, dual power seats and 6 speaker 700 watt amp stereo. All being charged by a 160 amp 1 wire powermaster...

When I did all my upgrades, Vintage Air, Sniper, Electric Fans, etc, etc, they all have their own fused circuits that gets wired straight in to the battery. Even though PW and locks is about the only upgrade I didn’t do I still have a few open circuits still left on the factory fuse box.

OK, perfect, thanks again!!!

No there’s not 2 fused links. Only the factory 16 gauge fused link at the bulkhead.

It’s a 12 gauge wire, I’m sorry for the confusion. One guy recommended doing away with the 12 gauge alt feed wire and running a 10 gauge alt feed jumper wire and bypass the bulkhead and tie it straight in to the ammeter wire that I now have the 12 gauge alt feed wire tied in to. I don’t know how...