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If you don't want to pound that roll pin back in you can do what I did.
I used a 5/16-18 set screw in place of the roll pin.
Just ran a 5/16 tap down the hole first and install along with some Loctite.
John,
I think all North American Mopar rear brake lines are routed on the drivers side.
In the case on my 71 Runner, from the rear flex line it runs up inside the drivers side rear wheel well.
Here it's above the front leaf spring mount.
From there it runs under the door sill to the front...
All big block exhaust bolt holes go into water jackets.
That's why they came from the factory with studs.
Either put studs back in or use thread sealer when putting the bolts back on.
Here are the leaf springs I have on my 71 Runner.
Drivers side.
Passenger side.
Here's the stance.
And here is a measurement from the floor to the rear wheel well opening.
Hopefully that will give you the info you need.
R413 summed it up as far as the items you will need.
I did this conversion on my 1971 Runner.
The only item I changed was the master cylinder push rod - I bought an adjustable one for mine.
Yes, replace the proportioning valve.
I have the same set-up that you are going to do.
I used the proper proportioning valve.
One of the ports is plugged as I'm also using a line-loc - you can see the bottom of it just under the proportioning valve.
YY1 - the leaf spring perches must be moved in order to offset the leaf springs.
Offset rear shackles must also be used.
No need to cut & weld the frame.
The mounts that Darter6 posted have a 1 1/4" offset.
I have the same ones on my 71 B-body.
Those mounts are to be used when you have super stock leaf springs for the car.
They cannot be use with regular leaf springs.....I just found this out the hard way.
Using those mounts with regular leaf...
I'm with rumblefish360 - dump the KYB's.
A good set of 90/10's up front with a set of adjustable shocks on the rear would help.
A sticky rear tire is needed, but like others have said, they would wear out too fast in normal driving.