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gkent is correct - using the Rustoleum textured suede finish works great.

Koosh, why don't you just cut a piece of sheet metal to put there? My 71 Runner came with a sheet metal divider because in it's previous life it was a drag car & it had a trunk mounted battery. Rules said that a metal divider has to be between the driver and battery. Should be easier to install...

What about using a fiber board?

Here are pics of the seat tracks and biscuits used on the 1971's. Here's how the seats look in the car.

I've had great results using this to fix plastics.

My adapter is not a Grant unit - its a factory unit.

I have the Grant wheel on my Runner. I love it. I have manual steering on the car so the bigger diameter is perfect for me.

The Grant wheel or the factory steering wheel does not do the canceling. That steel tang is located on the back of the crush can or steering wheel adaptor.

My 71 was a drag car in it's previous life. It still had the tin divider in the car when I bought it. I kept it in the car as I kept the battery in the trunk. Here's the divider. I covered it with Dynamat.

I'm more than certain it is 6. There are 6 places to hook the bows into on the car.

The larger steering wheel is better if you have a manual steering set-up. Power steering works fine with the smaller wheel.

You can try to fill that void with something like this. Use a popsicle stick to fill the void. Then, once dry the seam can be gone over with a black Sharpie to make it less conspicuous. Don't forget that material is over 50 years old - not a pliable as it once was.

National Moparts up here in Canada has the rail links.

This rear hound's-tooth seat cover for 71 Runner from Legendary was $950 Cdn dollars. Installed with help from a couple of my buddies.

Guys - I have a question regarding how the A-pillar trim is installed on a 1971 B-body. Where the A-pillar trim meets the dash speaker cover piece - does the trim sit on top of it like this? Or do they get tucked underneath it?

The benefit is if the speed nuts do not grab the stud and start to slip - the ny-lok nut will go on with no issues and hold it tight to the dash frame.

When you go to install the dash pad consider doing this. I did it when I installed my dash pad in my 71.

I did see that after I posted. I guess one could whittle up something from Teflon or nylon and use construction glue to affix it to the door.

Detroit Muscle Technologies sells them. They may not have your exact ones but you could buy these and shape them to fit?

Try this stuff. Its used for furnace ducting.