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Those valves would have to be awful soft to wear like that on just a start up IMO. I saw the reply "I didn't pay much attention" often throughout this thread, I think that alone contributed. I'm not trying to be an *** by any means but that's something you have to do. As mentioned by Hawkeye...

Before switching to a manual I had their setup on my Charger, I loved it.. way better than rods. The only thing I remember taking a bit of thought was the kickdown cable routing, seems to me it took a bit of head scratching before I got it where I was happy but never had a problem with it...

Squirting and spewing is concerning, sounds like you could have bigger problems? A plugged vent can certainly cause a lot of problems but that should only become an issue once the transmission is good and warm, if it's leaking even when it's cold I wouldn't suspect that to be the case...

As mentioned, sounds like it could just need a proper tuning. That's a fairly common occurrence for me when I initially but a fresh build in a vehicle before I've done any fine tuning, once I get everything dialed in voila, problem is gone. I'd throw a vacuum gauge on as well since you mention...

In my case it was to switch to a lower profile pan.

I have one on my 400, my only complaint other than the dimpled pan issue is you do not want to use RTV with them. I test fitted it and was concerned about the rear main seal and timing chain cover areas so I added a bit of RTV, next time I pulled the pan the RTV pulled the seal off of the tray.

I've always made my own, cheaper and guaranteed to fit.

I've used Cloyes on just about everything I've built, they have a good reputation and I've yet to have a failure. 440 source seams to be more geared towards "affordable" performance parts which is great but on something like a timing chain I want excellence.

I've posted this video before but it gives you a really good look at what all goes into a smooth running driveshaft.

I fought this, tried all of the recommended angles with no luck. There is no absolute angle because not every spring behaves the same for instance a weak spring will climb more under acceleration than a stiff spring so the best thing you can do is understand what's going on and adjust...

The yokes have to be perfectly inline on a driveshaft, not something you can change without cutting the yokes off but it will cause major problems. Watch the video that I posted below, phasing it's at the end of the video.

I'm not as scared of the crack as some, yes if it cracked by the frost plug it likely froze at some point but... you will blow the whole side of the block out before damaging the cylinders with frozen water. Flat wall vs cylindrical shape.. flat wall looses every time. Having said that, if it...

Really hard to say until they're torn down but I always prefer an original worn out motor over one that someone has had their fingers in.

I put a motor together for a friend that used an RPM crank and rods, looked pretty decent. The only thing I remember is playing musical chairs with the rods to get the needed rod side clearance but that's it.. seemed a bit tight in that department.

Can't offer any comparisons since I built a 451 for my first and only Mopar classic, it's all I know. I do love it and with 18,000 miles on it I can't say anything negative about it's reliability, it's been a solid motor that runs very well. On cost, nobody can really say until you get a quote...

Depends a lot on the complete build but for me it's 2,000 rpm give or take a hundred. 3,000 rpm isn't necessarily to high but for me (mine was right at 3,000) it drove me mad listening to it and it cost me a fortune to drive! Your cam choice will play a part in where your motor is happy and...

Yes the newer ones are.

I bought Comp Magnum rockers for mine, I checked the contact pattern.. looked perfect. I've got 18,000 miles on them so far without any issues. I like Harland Sharps but went with these because I liked the idea of them being bushed vs bearings seeing how they're well lubricated through the...

Confirm TDC using a piston stop then order a timing tape (a sticker with the timing marks) for the appropriate diameter. I do this anyways just because it's so much easier to see then the stampings. I didn't see 7.1, here's the 7" ones...

My current motor is my first solid lift motor, I was checking it yearly (3,000-4,000) miles but it never needed any adjusting other than miniscule amounts. I'm checking every other year now. I run nothing but quality 10W30 high zinc oil too (Schaeffer's).