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My lower control arm was pressed to tight against the cam when I rebuilt it,so I made up a little spreader to open it up.The cam is all the way down now and I pressed the slop back out of the control arm...On the other lower control arm the adjuster bolt snapped so I spread it open and removed...
I'm sure the cam should be resting on the block that the adjuster bolt go's into but it's not ...I don't remember the cams being so tight when doing them years ago on other cars,if i remember correctly the cam should just hang loose.
Hey guy's and gal's....I'm putting my Torsion bars in my 1974 Satellite Sundance and just wanted to be clear on where the adjustment bolt should be in reference to the cam arm.Should the bolt be backed out 100% and then the cam arm touch the hole where the bolt will come out or is how I have it...
Rather than me telling you how to bench bleed and then bleed the system these videos will make it very easy to understand :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOuDEiwiozQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgxMfQUMdJY
Any time you open your breaking system to air you have to bleed it.
After you bench bleed the Master and install it bleed the system starting with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest.
71-72 "K's" are solid mounted to the rails.
73SB-74BB b-body k members interchange, the 73-74's use rubber isolators to mount to the rails.
71,72's use different suspension,spindles and torsion bars also the shocks mounting locatons are way different between 71,72(in engine bay) and the...
Sorry if I wasn't clear in my previous post.There is absolutely no reason to remove the lower control arms shells at all.
All you need to do is drill the rubber bushings to loosen them up, twist the shaft then press the shaft out in a vise with a large bolt.Once the shaft is out of the way...
True,now if you have a 73-74 B body you do need to swap the K's to go big block unless you buy Scumacher conversion mounts I think this is where the whole K swap thing started for other year cars???
I don't have any problems pressing them out in a vise once the bushing is out???? I even saved mine and reused them with my new poly bushings.And you can just leave the lowers shell on the shafts and reuse them.
Here is a pic.The shaft is to short and the bushings are not big enough around to fit 73-74 B bodies strut rod.
Just a heads up for any one reading along :)
One other thing I found when ordering the strut rod bushings is that every one selling after market bushings has the wrong bushings for 73-74's they try to pass off the smaller 60-70's style...They don't work,I have 3 sets here if anyone needs some.
Yeah I did some head scratching when I wanted to order all my parts because every shop around tried to order me the cam style, some of the books they had even called for the cams for the 73-74 B-bodies.
If you go to my cars build pages at the link below....
About half way down the page you will see the lower control arms sitting in a white box with the shafts removed then the upper control arms and removed lower control arm shafts are sitting in a box covered in a black garbage bag soaking in...
I forgot to add how to do the lowers lol.
Press the shaft out of the lower control arm from the T-bar side towards the front(threaded end of the shaft).Again run a drill bit in and out of the bushing a few times, then pump in lots of lube.If you double nut the shaft and clamp the nuts in the...
Some times you need to install Offset Bushings to get it rite (note the inner cylinders placement in the pic).
But have a pro decide if you need them.
They will give you the maximum offset possible.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moog/719/K7103/10002/-1