Search results for query: *

Hey Thank's :) I often wounder if anyone looks at that link haha :upside down: Keep us posted on your spark issue I'd like to know what the cause is.

Here is some trouble shooting info for no spark: If there's no spark, First, check the voltage at the "+" side of the coil, which may also be marked "bat" or "ECU." It should be at least 8 volts with the key in the "run" position, and within a 0.5 volts of the battery voltage during cranking...

Cool good for you!! Keep us posted and let's see some pic's :)

You got it right!

Ha, so how come all us Mopar guy's have Chev's as our daily drivers??? lol

Thank's Ron, I almost bought it but I realized it's for 1996 and up and my trucks a 1990 haha oh well.Let me know if you see one that works for 1990 and up and I'll get it and let you know how it works.

Hey Ron thank's for the reply,I should have added the Cat is good I just welded the exhaust on a few weeks ago and checked it out then. I didn't have time to look the truck over until after work today but I had it in my head that the Map sensor was the cause. I was getting ready to unhook it...

Hey all my 1990 GMC 1500 pickup just failed it's E-test. It wasn't all that bad only high on the Hydro carbons.I knew the distributor was on it's way out so I swapped it out for a known good one. When I started the truck after the swap it ran like crap the exhaust stunk like the cat had gone bad...

Get a volt meter and check for 12volts on the small wire at the starter solenoid when you hit the key.Watch to see what the voltage doe's when you wiggle the key aposed to just holding it on.Then post the results. Some times cables from the battery have high resistance due to age/corrosion.Your...

Any luck finding the problem? Keep us posted.

Put a test light on the Small power wire on the starter solenoid and have some one hit the key to rule out the ignition switch, if the test light fails to light up its probably the switch.If it lights up replace the starter or rebuild the starter solenoid. If you have the neutral safety switch...

I'm not sure what car your looking to do this to but the mentioned method won't work if you have an Orange or Chrome Box ignition system on your vehicle, rather than connecting the Green signal wire of your tachometer to the negative side of your ignition coil,you need to splice into the Gray...

Agree......If you pull that fuse and still have the problem keep pulling fuses one at a time until it go's away. It's just a process of elimination.

If you over tighten the switch it can/will damage it and it will not work..... Automatic trans car's have two spayed connectors on the starter relay, one go's to the Neutral safety switch (The center pin) it grounds the wire in neutral or park.Thats why if you unhook the harness to the switch...

After telling you how and what to check for I ended up doing it on my 74 Charger lol..I went out to the shop and hit the key after installing a rebuilt column and the sucker wouldn't do any thing....It was a combo of problems though. 1) loose power wire to the starter. 2) bad wires/connections...

had an after thought :) You can test your ignition switch by putting the volt meters (+) test lead on the smaller stud on the starter solenoid and the (-) lead to a good ground.Have a bud hit the key,you should see 12volts when the key is in the full forward position (start position) Or try and...

A bad starter can and will draw more then the 12 volts your battery has, thats why the boost pack helps it start.Get it running and put a volt meter on the batt it should read between 12-15 volt while running...If not put the volt meters (-) test lead on the (-) batt post and put the (+) test...

Yeah the whole site is great..I love the part # look up :)

I think you forgot to post the link ;) Here is what I think he was going to post for you.........My mopar http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18

Cool,glad to see you up and running.....Now swing on by and lets take her for a rip!!!