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Yeah this truly IS a huge mess. Everything is wrong, except one thing; the 3.73s are right, for a manual trans, and that 236/244/110 cam. . Anything less, with a low-cylinder pressure, small-cube engine, is gonna be sluggish; especially in a heavier car. The first thing you gotta do is a...

Yur gonna lose some, a good amount of, take off torque-multiplication, after the 4-speed is all in. So, unless you already have 3.23s or better, you'll probably want to budget for more rear gear. If you already know this, then just ignore me. But if you didn't, and want an explanation; just ask.

Ok, I'll add my 2cents. As to overdrive If only 25% of your driving is gonna be hiway, then I would put overdrive on the backburner, especially the A833od. And here's why; The Mainshaft gear in that box has, IIRC 21 teeth. At any one time, I doubt there are more than 2 teeth transmitting...

This IS your problem. The Governor is the primary, and gross shift commander. The TP adjustment is just for fine tunning. You have sped up the driveshaft, 3.23/2.94= plus 10%, so you are gonna have to mess with the governor BEFORE anything else. The throttle pressure adjustment cannot...

Maybe, but over 100,000 miles I have run 87E10 the whole way, having saved thousands and thousands of dollars. This in an 11/1 Eddy-headed, 230*cam 360. Not a BBM I know, but thousands of dollars, to me is a really big deal. Not to mention the 367 went 93 in the Eighth,@3457 pounds and 900ft...

Not a BBM, but That must work for SBMs too. It seemed to me that the HE2430AL Hughes cam I once installed (270/276/110;223/[email protected]) in at 0 advance (180psi cylinder pressure, .034Q; Ran nearly as good as the Hughes HE3038AL (276/286/110;230/[email protected]) in at 4* advanced, with same pressure and Q...

I too think your problem will be in the carb, or in the fuel, unless the timing is too much for the condition at the stumble. However, I never start a diagnostic without first doing, if applicable, a valve adjustment, and then a compression test. And making sure the plugs are not running too...

3000 miles a year times 20 years = 60,000 miles, a half-life for an engine. Even if in 20 years you left the carb rich enough to somehow wash the oil off the cylinders, The rest of the car will have succumbed to old age anyhow. Gas-wash is the least of my worries, and I do have a 750DP on my...

With 4.10s and 27" tires; 50=2550 @ zero-slip, and 70=3570 @ zero slip. So it looks like you nailed it. As for speed-o gears, there are a few guys on sister-site FABO that have them

Hang on that is nonsense. If a 727 took 35/40 hp, no slanty in the world could turn it, and there would never have been thousands and thousands of taxi-cabs that ran them. The number needs a qualifier. Like this; My 440 made 450 hp on the dyno, but by the time I installed it, she was down to...

IDK about BigBlocks, but I know how to build a fantastic 4.04x3.58 SBM,for both economy and still to be a 12 second 3650 pound car@1000ft. It seems to me, if someone wanted to, or had the opportunity to, it could be translated to 3.75 stroke BB. The key piece will be the cruise rpm.

That's right; mentioned but not answered. Elevation is a key ingredient and it impossible to recommend a CR in the first place not knowing the specifics of the build, never mind not knowing the elevation either. Not knowing these, you could build a lazy pos slug of an engine, or a...

Has anybody asked what elevation you intend to drive this thing at? Sealevel to 5000 or more is a big big change. With that cam you might be flirting with detonation at 200 ft and 10/1. But by 5000 you'd need 11.2 for the same pressure. Flipping that around; 11.2 might be the right Scr for...

Also, for a streeter, forget anything with a 140 in it. You might have to wait a long time for the oil to warm up enough for the synchros to work properly. I have been using a 50/50 mix of Dextron-II, and 75/90 since 1999, in my streeter, with 100% success. The only reason I put the 75/90 in...

Go Weitse go!

I drilled those holes and one in every low-point of every pipe .............. in 1999, and still running the same TTI, pig-heavy, 75 pound exhaust system. Every time I gas that car up, I think about them 75 pounds; like burning dollar bills.

To make a true 12.5Scr with a 12.5 piston, the maximum TOTAL chamber size would have to be ~ {340/8 x 16.387}/12.5-1= 60.5cc.. I suppose it could be possible with those pop-ups, but I think it would be a stretch. In any case, IMO, the engine doesn't care about compression ratio, not any other...

I ran that 292/292/108 cam in my 11.3 Aluminum headed 367, with .040 quench, and no detonation at any rpm/load setting. And I ran it at 207*minimum cooling system temperature. The trick was 14* of idle-timing building linear to 28* at 2800, and slowing to 32/34 @3400.. To make up for the slower...

When my rods came back from resizing, they were not all the same length. When my block came back from decking and line-honing, the crank was no longer in the factory location, and the decks were no longer perfect to the crank. So then, the pistons popped up in a large variation of deck heights...

I run a deep engine pan, not for cooling, and not for G-force compensation. I run the same 5 qts in the 7 qt pan, to put the oil level lower and further from the spinning crank; cuz I read what Smokey Yunich had to say about that in his book. Which boils down to free horsepower. It seems to...