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Used the wife to guide it in on one side and to sit on the brackets. Then she held it in place while I threaded in a couple of bolts.

I agree that most of the PDR guys can do amazing work. About their only limitations are double paneled areas and badly creased/ stretched dents.

My paint shop recommended SEM self etching primer under 2k BC/CC for some touch up. Worked fine for small areas. I repainted the rear quarter panel tail light buckets on my car for example.

I stumbled upon that several years ago trying to get my GTX doors to close easier. I didn’t realize it was spring loaded and needed to move until then either. It does help. Good tip.

If you want something you can brush on I would look at Corroseal. I just used some and thought it was really good. I liked that it goes on as a whitish opaque color and turns black as it reacts with the rust and seals it...

I’ve grown quite fond of McGuires line of ceramic wash & wax, liquid wax and spray detailer. Works especially well and is durable on my daily drivers.

I can only guess, but I’m guessing the epoxy is OK when he gets down to it. If the epoxy reacted it would have happened with the first coat of Perfect Prime he applied unless it was just a dust coat. I don’t think it would have waited until the second coat the next day.

I think if it was the epoxy coat, you would have seen this on the first coat of Perfect Prime. So the first coat of perfect Prime must not have cured completely, the amount of hardener was off or temps got too cool in the garage. A temperature of 60 degrees minimum is usually OK but curing...

1966 Plymouth SATELLITE UPPER BODY SIDE Molding TRIM CLIP KIT MOPAR | eBay

I believe I ordered some on Amazon. Biggest problem I have had with it is the weak adhesive (not 3M tape however). Sometimes I have to add tape on the backside to secure it.

I assume you are using it for spot paint repairs rather than paint a whole panel. It doesn’t work real well for that. It’s better for soft edges at body peaks, fender to doorjambs, etc. On a panel spot repair, if say you anticipate applying 3 paint coats over a small repair, you need to step...

This above. I made a litt go/no-go gage from a pop cycle stick or something for just the right width to secure to the clips and went down each molding marking wide sots with a marker. Then I laid the trim on edge on a flat surface and with careful hand pressure (they are soft), massaged the...

If it’s a Resto mod I don’t see anything wrong with it. Not exactly novel - the 70 Firebird and Camaro pioneered it way back then. Always a pain in the rain with my old Firebird but then not many of these see much rain any more.

Mine had two sets of pins and one set had been preened over by the original supplier, leaving me a set to use for reattachment after rechroming.

I wonder if there was a bit of very fine solvent pop in that area - probably barely visible and not uncommon with urethanes. And that might create a microscopic path for moisture to be driven under the surface from heat. It’s a shame whatever the reason.

My GTX which is supposed to be from east Arkansas had 2 holes that from memory were nearly identical to yours. I stuck a Mopar Performance decal over them.

I know that there are some two compartment spray cans that mix the catalyst just prior to spraying and they have to be used within something like 24 hours. Eastwood sells some clears like this. I don’t think the local paint store is going to have the equipment to load something like that. I...

Nib files work well, I think Eastwood used to sell them. One thing I've found when trying to eliminate a run or similar defect is to use a hard, flat block for flattening and blocking down - unless on a concave surface and then I use a large wood dowel rod. Blocks of hard, solid oak wood work...

I would not finish with anything coarser than 600 but that’s kind of left over from the lacquer days. With urethane I think I would finish with 800. Ah, 68Moparman beat me to it.

I never messed with enamel but to the best of my understanding if you use a hardener with single stage enamel, the end result is not much different than single stage urethane. It can be color sanded and buffed and small defects corrected. Still have the health protection issues with the...