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Two in the 66 and just one in the 67.

A lot of the old Chrysler AM radios used 4 ohm speakers. But in general 4 and 8 ohm were commonly seen in the 60s and 70s. I put replacement 4 ohm speakers in my 66 Satellite and 67 GTX and it works well if not exactly high fidelity.

I’ve installed 2 mechanical VRs recently in my cars that I obtained from Halifaxhops. They were from two different companies and appeared un-used. One smoked a bit on first start up but quit after a minute or two. I didn’t notice any smoke off the other. Both are working fine and I suspect...

Is this a duplicate thread? Thought I had already replied to it. A number of companies supply M&H harnesses, whatever Year One does. I’ve bought them from Classic and Mega Parts.

I used M&H from Classic to re-wire my 66 Satellite. You probably need to do the forward and instrument panel harnesses which will replace the bulkhead box and plugs. A couple of things. First, every accessory (console, heater, clock, AC, radio) has a sub harness that probably plugs into the...

On this particular car, Halifaxhops helped me identify in mid-Jan that although an alternator rebuilder tested my alternator and pronounced it good by test, it was non-the-less probably producing a bad DC signal to the VR. I looked around for a source of another rebuilt alternator that I felt I...

Nothing wrong with the alternator - works fine at 14.2 volts with a mechanical voltage regulator. It’s the damn electronic voltage regulators!

I wasn’t talking about the alternator at all. I’m questioning why I can buy a early style Ford electronic voltage regulator that controls system voltage at 14.1/14.2 volts but nobody can find a early style Mopar electronic voltage regulator that will control system voltage at less than 15.2...

Going back to the earlier part of my thread, I have an ERA Cobra I built some years ago that runs a dual point, early Ford alternator and electronic VR. I got it out today and finally put my voltage meter on it while running and it was right at 14.1-14.2 volts - perfect!! Geeez - you would...

Do you have a round back, single field alternator? I don’t think the connections could be mixed up on the alternator without deliberate effort. As I understand it in layman terms ( I’m not great on electrical either). The VR evaluates the car system voltage levels through the ignition circuit...

It would probably be a good idea to have the alternator checked. But I recently had one checked by a rebuilder who said it was good and it apparently isn’t. Does anyone know if a good shop can bench test an alternator and verify its response to afield signal representing a voltage regulator...

Did you measure voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running? If you are only getting 13.5 - 15 volts across the battery you shouldn’t see 17-18 volts at your instrument panel (I said “shouldn't see” and not “can’t see” as wiring can be monkeyed with).

I’m not sure about 68s but my 66 and 67 have a whole bunch of accessory and option wire harnesses that typically do not come with a reproduction main harness, or may not even be available. Have a radio? There’s a harness for that. Have a console? Theres a harness for that. Have a heater or...

With the earlier firewall 2-bolt pattern would help too, for us that don’t like drilling new holes in the firewall.

I don’t know if you have a lift or not but a couple of months ago I was getting ready to change plugs in my GTX with AC. I sat there looking at things under-hood a minute and not liking what I saw decided to lift the car in the air on my lift. Got under there and removal and replacement was...

Carburetors have vented fuel bowls and today’s fuel compared to that of 1970 is highly volatile and evaporates quickly. That low volatility also promotes fuel percolation after a hot stop and heat soak so after driving your car a good portion of the fuel in the fuel bowl is gone within a half...

Right, I figure 14.2 to 14.4 volts gives me enough buffer room to comfortably stay under 15 volts in worse case basis. Much better than starting out at 15.2 to 15.5 and seeing spikes up near 16 potentially. I don’t know why we need that much voltage. I keep my new RAM set on the gauges view...

Yes, kind - of. I glanced at my under-dash voltage gage and it was reading right around 14 volts which was where I last adjusted the mech VR to. I didn’t run it long enough with the door open (9 degrees out) to put my multi-meter on it, but I’ve run this VR on both of my cars and it’s been...

Im not completely sure whose post this is in response to - I’m assuming a response to 72 Roadrunner GTX in #48?

I got the alternator from my 66 swapped over to the GTX. Only about 9 degrees out when I finished but I cracked the door open long enough to fire it up for a minute. With the lights off my amp gauge at idle or reving, was dead steady at a slight charge. Turned on my headlights and got a bit of...