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I buy Sta-Lube GL4 transmission lube at NAPA in my area.

The worst problem I’ve had with polishing aluminum trim are pits. Some are more like mini craters. I once polished out all the interior aluminum window trim for a friends 63 427 Galaxie and the trim was pitted up like a piece of rusted steel. I would have had to grind it down to paper...

Same here. My first car was a 64 383 Sport Fury which is still my overall favorite primarily because of the 4-gauge dash pod. But every time I saw a nice 65 Satellite my affection would start to wander a bit.

I only remember seeing 65 Satellites with bucket seats.

I purchased one of these off EBay for my 66 a year or so ago and it’s been working fine. Plymouth 1963 1964 1965 1966 Brand New Turn Signal Switch TS102 2631383 2822170 | eBay

I don’t think MoparLeo is taking on any work right now according to a post he made yesterday. MOPAR HINGE RESTORATIONS- TEMPORARY SHUTDOWN.

My rollers were pretty gummed up too. It’s not easy cleaning and lubing those in place and disassembling rear quarter windows and tracks is quite a chore. There’s no easy way to do this, pull the rear seat and back, pull the side panels and start cleaning and lubing. The FSM is definitely...

A second vote for this. I’ve used a couple of his kits and they work great. No added bushings.

I put together a roadside emergency duffle to carry with us a few years ago and included one of the small battery jumpers. But the thing would loose its charge over several months and I would never think of charging it. And then one day it was dead - totally. I haven’t replaced it yet.

I know Cometic mostly by name and forums mention. Let us know how they work. I have a set off rubber gaskets, maybe Mr. Gasket, but have been afraid they were too stiff to conform well and seal with stamped Hemi covers. Yes, I had a leak problem at the driver side, bottom, rear corner - the...

I also use cork but I lightly torque them, come back and retorque, retorque, retorque, retorque…. Sometimes it takes a week and maybe 10 retorquings, depending on gasket thickness to get them stable. On the Hemi I use the steel reinforced cork FelPros. They are pretty thick and take a while...

I did use a billet retainer from some Mopar source but it used neoprene side seals and also had a beveled recess on the back side to fill with RTV. I did use guide studs and had to seat it a couple of times to make sure the side seals were all the way down - but that pesky oil still seems to...

I methodically replaced the rear seal in my 66 Hemi and thought I had it sealed up but I pulled the flywheel cover a few weeks ago and looked up there with a strong UV light (dye in the oil) and I picked up a couple small trails coming from the side seal areas probably. Not enough to pull the...

Are you saying they seated the seal in RTV? If so that’s a pain. Might try using a square cut end of a zip tie to run through there from both sides to see if you get anything out. It won’t hurt it to bump the starter although you may get a little oil out of the assembly from the pump. You...

Seems like some manufactures might have called for adjustments in drive - but don’t bother. Adjustments in neutral are good enough. Besides it saves you the embarrassment of doing what I did one day when I was about 20. I was setting the idle speed in gear in my 64 383/Torqueflite Sport Fury...

Thank you.

That is pretty nifty if you don’t have a console tach. I molded one out of fiberglass for my GTX but it was a bit of work. The problem with replacing the idiot light is it’s part of the gage cluster molding. But maybe someone has figured out a replacement with a little Dremel work.

You often hear how important it is to keep everything as spotlessly clean as possible during an engine build. You kind of have to wonder how clean those final assembled engines actually were with all the equipment, machining and fitting operations, open factory floor facilities and continuous...

You can always replace your voltage regulator with a solid state one ( assuming you have a mech one). Everyone I’ve tried puts out 15.3 to 15.5 volts at idle. Flickering and dim headlights will probably no longer be a problem. Although you may be like me and pucker up a little over those...

The 2 bbl carb 383 was probably designated to run on regular. The 4 bbl carb 383 would definately require premium fuel. Which do you have? Different octane fuels would have nothing to do with any exhaust smoke - nothing.