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Thank you, I have the old stuff so I wil look. I ordered what was listed for my car. Can I ask which part number/dealer you ordered from?

What am I missing here? I have looked up in my manuals to make sure it’s hooked up correctly. Cannot figure out why the top of the tire rod is hitting the torsion bar.

I know the shop you are talking about. It’s gone now. A lot of the area is being developed. The oak grove area I drive through once in a while and have not seen anything recently.

Looking for a new Pittman and idler arm for my 69 super bee. I saw these and wondered if the fast ratio thing would work fine with my stock set up?

I know Ranchita well. It’s a nice little hide away before you drop into Boreggo Springs. Hope it helps when the time comes to do yours.

I don’t. I honestly don’t see a lot of B bodies around town. I’ve seen one coronet RT near my house and a couple years ago I saw a charger 500 out at a car show quite a ways from my house.

Well, removing the lower control arms wasn’t so bad. Got them both off, got the torsion bars in and everything back together. it also gave me a chance to torque the lower control arm pivots to their correct torque spec.

Actually wasn’t so bad with everything new and greased up.

Well, although it’s a good idea it’s even a better idea to get the torsion bars slid through the torsion boxes prior to bolting the K frame into the car. Once that’s in it’s not possible to slide the torsion bar through The front side. so now the seals have to come off so that I can put them...

So after trying a couple different ways I decided to do this. First I put the seals in a cup of boiling water to get them soft. Then I took a small funnel I had in the garage and cut it so it was just larger than the end of the torsion bar. I put a little Grease around the wide end of the funnel...

Happy new year everyone! I’m trying to purchase the main front to rear brake line for my 1969 super bee with 11 inch drums all around non power. I’m looking these up and I see different descriptions. One says, drum and disc with valve another says drum and disc without a valve. I’m confused as...

Hey everyone, I am looking for a brake master cylinder for my 69 super be non-power brakes. I found this one online that is brand new and looks period correct. Has anyone use these or does anyone have any advice on this specific type? Or maybe a better suggestion.

I skimmed through a lot of this but my basic thoughts related to physics are the energy Has to go somewhere. so it either goes into your car raising up so you’re losing the energy that actually raises the car, or you somehow control the car raising up and force that energy into the wheels which...

Thank you for all of the great information. I’ll look into these. Luckily my pointer is in good shape.

Cleaning up my 1969 Bee steering column. Cleaning this Indicator plate and wondering how it looked originally. There is some white paint on it but can’t tell how to correctly redo it. Any input would be appreciated.

Cleaning up all my brake parts. Today I media blasted the master cylinder hoping it was an original. I don’t think it is. It says, WAGNER LOCKHEED 75710. I assume this is an aftermarket replacement. Looks like this.

(Picture is not my column) I am putting my steering column back together and found this picture to use for a guide. Looks like I may be missing this spring at the end here. Is this spring correct for my 69 steering g column?

Hey guys, I am starting the restoration of my steering column. My steering wheel is pretty badly cracked. The steering pad underneath is pretty bad as well. My horn ring is rusted. Just wondering if anyone knows a general cost of restoration versus just buying a new one or the pieces to put...