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And going through your bulkhead connectors Which might have been your no start intermittent issue all along Time shall tell Peace

1. Operates at speeds up to 10,000 RPM WOW - Never thought that was possible with a factory ignition coil , ballast and a Orange Box with all this talk today LOL Anyways , for the most part they want your FACTORY Part # 1.4 - 1.6 OHM Ignition Coil along with the FACTORY .5 OHM Ballast...

Sunday AM Should I Laugh , or should I Cry Both

Why would you attach a Chicle Chewing Gum to a set of points LOL I don’t see any good quality Chinese Ignition Coils to make any of that stuff scream for mercy

Simple - Disconnect vacuum advance hose - Check it with the timing light through the hole at different RPMs thru the mechanical advance - It should bee damn close dead on and same thru all RPMs under mechanical advance with the #1 cylinder Then hook up your vacuum advance hose to full manifold...

No I have just seen certain coils , especially low ohm coils with Mopar ignition modules cause erratic behavior with our tachs

Kern what coil where you running with that FBO Box Tachometer issue

I keep an old cap with an hole to check rotor phasing on Mopar Distributors Idle Cruise Vacuum Check at all RPMs with timing light

Rick E His Distributors and Ignition Modules Made in the USA my *** The Blue ECU 7500 was clearly dimpled China inside the case when I ripped it apart The distributor was worse in quality

It always amazes me how a percentage has had great luck using low ohm ignition coils like a MSD Blaster or the Accel Super Coil designed for CDI type ignition systems , while others have had zero luck or multiple failures using these CDI type ignition coils I would bet the use of a ballast...

Like mentioned What coil are you running , brand and Ohm rating and what Ohm Ballast Resistor are you using Orange box - So many variations over the years as of late

All of a sudden I got real hungry Nothing like electronic ignition Skincare And Ham

Hopefully when Kern Dog gives us weekly or monthly updates on his ignition system progress , he won’t bee soliciting his latest skin care products at the same time

The ECU Blue/Yellow gets its power off the Ignition 1 Run Side of the Ballast Resistor - Full 12V - 14V

"In 2017 I wanted to weigh the car and I had to get home (In my work truck) in time to get the Charger to the scales. One time it stalled without reason at an intersection and after trying a new coil then ECM, it fired up. The next day, It stalled in my driveway and putting the previous coil...

He has a new distributor going in - He wants to shorten up the slots first , to much mechanical advance , non adjustable

Green with red tracer would go to or dead end on the 5 OHM resistor side of a dual ballast resistor that was used for the factory 5 pin ECU - On a single ballast resistor it would not go to anything - It definitely should not go back thru the bulkhead connector The issues you are describing I...

Could bee as simple bad ground on bolts of Ignition Module Pick up coil inside distributor could bee bad also Simple as checking reluctor gap on all eight Ignition Coil

Probably using a Factory 4 Prong Dual Ballast Resistor - Make sure your checking for power on the Ignition Coil side of Ballast Resistor 4 Pin Ignition Module will work just fine with a Factory Dual Ballast Resistor Ignition Switch key in Start position - Did you check for power at the...

Cool Beans - Always nice to hear POSITIVE results - Did you see what I did there - No pun intended LOL Crack a cold one Watching 500 cars crash at the Daytona 500 on TV Nice clean original engine department by the way , Looks damn nice Beautiful