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This should help. https://nicksgarage.com/6way.htm

The seat tracks usually have an extra hole towards the front to allow another inch or so of movement back. You have to relocate the spot welded bolts forward. Not a big effort to do and will get you a little more room. The six way as previously mentioned gets you more positions not...

Well.....I just received one of these and really didn't look at it closely. Gone for a few days now, but will definitely inspect it when I return. D

The backing plate that holds the emblem in is not reproduced. If you do not use it and just clip them to the seat, yes, you will have a "branding" moment as they will protrude from the seat. Below is a picture of an original and a fabricated one. D

I know of no one that makes this trim. I look for them at every swap and see very few through the season. I do have a few extra if you are in need. D

The post will be the same color as the upper door frame. The wind lace will also color matched to the UDF color. This is a picture of a Super Bee, but the Road Runner will be the same. I will see if I can get a picture of the wind lace edging. It is different than what is down by the door...

9422041 is the part number.

These bolts are a course thread and unique to the bucket seat hinges. Do not loose them as no one makes them. D

Yes, they are factory. Both hinge bolts should have them. I believe they are a barrier between the hinge and the vinyl so it does not tear with time. I hope this helps. DD

Thanks for the thought. I only mess with 1969 thru 71 LR tags. There are others on this forum that specialize in SL cars. If you post your tag, it would be appreciated. If not comfortable with that, email it and I will see they get it. D

Glad to help. D

The post is painted the same color as the upper door frame code. Headliner stops behind the headliner trim piece. A pillar - Windshield B pillar - Door post (21 body style) C pillar - Rear roof area (sail pillar) Hope this helps. D

A picture of the area you are describing will help you find an answer. D

If the quality is like most of the junk made in China, you will have to shorten the bezel to make it fit. That is what I had to do with mine. A belt sander did the trick. Good luck. D

The console doors never really fit well. I ended up elongating the holes in the hinge with a Dremmel tool to make it fit correctly. That is the only way you will get it straight. There should be no washers falling out. They were shims from the last guy who tried to straighten it. Hope this...

You only have one clip that holds that header on, and missing the rest. They are a swedge fit into the upper window frame. You slip them into the hole and pry them open with a screwdriver or similar tool. There is one clip for each hole in the trim piece. The attached picture shows them...

The frames are the same. A hardware kit was added for the head rests. It is available from Mega and others as well. http://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=171-HR810-BUK-KIT Picture of the hardware installed below. Hope this helps. D

Yes, you have the wrong piece for the bottom. The one shown is for up and around the glass. The one that slides on the package tray is completely different. Best picture I have is posted below. D