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"B" engine (361, 383) intake manifolds will not fit "RB" engines like the 413, 426, and 440. Because the deck height of the block is raised on the RB engines the distance between the intake manifold mating surfaces on the heads is farther apart. You will have to use an intake made for the "B"...
Mopar 350,361,383, and 400 were all "B" engines, or low deck. 413,426, and 440 were all "RB" meaning raised "B" engines, due to the taller blocks, requiring a different intake and distributor.
Hmmm, I do see the single lip non leather replacement: Vintage Mopar 2931862 Rear Pinion Oil Seal fits Dodge Plymouth Chrysler Imperial. My bad about not seeing the double lip part.
I also see DrDiff's seal but can't tell if it is double lip or not.
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DRIVETRAIN
BRAKES
SUSPENSION...
Springs would be my vote. Engine break in with old springs appears to help with cam break-in. Not hard to swap afterward. Still sucks big time. FWIW here is a little piece from Motortrend:
Flat Tappet
Flat tappets have a time-proven performance history. They’ve won a lot of races and have...
No proof of this, but my understanding is that B/RB motors changed from 4 bolt to 6 bolt pattern valve covers in '65. Others probably know more on this than I.
Just a side note: When the trans let loose (locked up??) at highway speed on my 73 RR it also instantly shut down the engine. When we got everything back to normal we found the distributor has slid around under it's locking plate. Maybe it was not as tight as it should have been but you may...
Paul,
If you are good with fabrication or have a friend that is, you could use post #19 as a guide and with the parts you do have, you could scale off of those and fab up that missing middle piece. Three bends, thread the one end, and a small drilled hole on the other (for the pin) and your...
I would leave the distributor in since this is a Small Block and the distributor is on the back of the engine. Big block, no issue as it is staring you right in the face. On a 318 it can be a bit of pain to get it lined up.
Missed a call from a Mopar friend of mine that I sent a video of the problem to. Now I can't get a hold of him. He was kinda laughing and said I was missing a screw. Great, I have no idea which screw he is talking about, maybe the one in my head, IDK. He is a little funny sometimes. I have...
It is the factory distributor that it was born with so I really don't wont to change it out. The rotor turns with the shaft in the clockwise rotation (as normal) but when you stop turning the shaft you can turn the rotor and additional 60 degrees or so more, in the same clockwise movement...
Had to change the pick up on this as the wires were mouse eaten. Now the rotor will turn almost 1/4 turn back and forth without moving the shaft. I don't think that is the way it was before I got my hands in the mix. I don't know if I dropped a spring or something else but I has to be pretty...
I used Delfleet Essential on the advise of the my supplier. They advised this stuff is GREAAAT for engines (high heat). They have never given me bad advice so I went with it.