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For me doing it in my driveway and not having all the special tools, only had to take it to a shop get an alignment. I figured time and shop fees help ease the cost of QA1.
I replaced upper and lower control arm with QA1. Just remove old, cleaned mounting points and put new on that already had...
Since it is manual steering, it probably has manual steering alignment specs that have negative castor to help slow speed steering wheel effort.
I'd try putting power steering specs in it.
Had an Charger that would wobble at high speeds due to manual alignment settings, using power steering...
Are the brake line connected with fluid in it? If so try opening bleed to relieve pressure to see if that frees up rotor.
I got a new master cylinder that had 2 brake residual valves in master cylinder I had ordered disk/drum but it had valves front and rear (drum/drum). Caused the brake pads...
I got a re-manufactured master cylinder for disc/drum and it had valves in front and rear for whatever reason. Recommend checking for and removing check valve for front discs.
For me it was easier to replace upper and lower control arms with new.
To me Was worth the time and aggravation ,upper control arm was also in bad shape. Came with bushings and ball joints installed, took off crusty parts, cleaned decades of gunk off frame then put new parts on. After figuring...
Same problem but with 72 Satellite with 440 transplant.
Was checking to see if mount was broken by jacking the motor up and found play/slack in mounting bolts. Able to lift motor a bit and tighten mounting bolt to keep pan off link, but only temp fix.
My rubber mounts might be too short...
I'd give https://www.springsnthings.com/ and ask chat online for better answer than I can give, running their HD/RT springs now but not on a Family Cruiser.