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A big mistake is putting moly lube on the sides of the lifter, don’t, only on face. Thin oil on sides

Front cover goes on first then the pan. Let sealer in corners DRY overnight, oil will dissolve it if not dry. Also torque the bolts to SM specs!

He had two AFBs cross ways

About 25 years ago a friend used the bath tub type on his 64 with a 1/4” plate for the top and 2 AFBs. He said it was no problem driving on the street, plenty of power with great drivability. Just like any carb-intake you gotta know how to tune it.

No bottom cover?

Trend does them also. I’m looking to make a jig to run them on my valve grinding machine soon

Trans rebuild kits are $125 tops the rest of the $$$ is reaming out your butt. With proper tools 1-1/2 hour tops to put back together

I bought a 69 RR in 73, had a 509 cam, bad crank. Pushrod had bent lifter popped out lost oil pressure and piggybacked a rod bearing (previous owner, paid $250 for whole car). New crank and back together with adjustable rockers no more bent pr. Raced that engine for 3 years in a Duster, in 92...

Make a cover with inspection plates then no need to remove everything. Make the covers out of lexan then you can watch the valve train while running.

I’ve done them in about 15 minutes with the right size socket and clamp. Or drop pan and vb in 1/2 hour. Can you say rip off artist? Does he change the radiator cap on an air cooled VW?

On and off for 55 years racing, first, second, third, drive car out of water letting off the gas as car rolls out. Put back in first, under power, holding the brakes, roll forward a few feet to set sprag. IF the sprag is bad you’ll feel it then. Go race. If ANYTHING breaks in driveline fix the...

Wondering what year they changed to 29 splines?

They look like the 8-3/4 bearings with the lock ring. Only thing is they wold need some block between the axel ends and an adjuster to set the preload, I’ll go back and look at kit again, might have missed it.

But an 8-1/4 axel rides on a straight bearing unlike an 8-3/4 or 9-3/4. The c-clip is the only thing holding that axel in place (unless a disc is used) so it doesn’t matter what race you run still a straight bearing, sealed or in sealed. Now if a bearing is pressed onto the axel with the lock...

I would think even the 8-3/4 would benefit from jack bolts thru a reinforced back cover. All looks great there.

A tight nut or a half tight nut will still give same preload on bearings, the shims lock the two bearings in place and don’t change

What’s your problem you can’t read. Shins set the preload on bearings, the nut streatches the pinion ABOVE THE YOKE. Neither has any thing to do with pattern. I when to school on this **** and have done hundreds of setups so take a hike!

Exactly, read the next post. What the hell do you think holds ANY nut tight?

“ Move the head of the pinion in or out and the the preload either increases or decreases” Preload is set after the depth is right, either by shims on the pinion or the crush sleeve, between the two bearings. Then the nut will stretch the pinion to keep the nut tight. Have you ever used a...

Go back and read again yourself, the PRELOAD on the pinion NOT bearings. I can put 250 pounds on the nut but if the shims are off it’ll flop around in the case. Two separate things unless you have a crush sleeve then the nut is twofold, sets preload on bearings and pinion. Sorry you can’t...