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Nice Electra 88 :lol:

I wanna see someone get the crank gear at 6 and cam sprocket at 12 as originally posted. That would be a skill. :D Beanhead is a good dude. It's 6 oclock somewhere, time for a drink, right? LOL All good. We all get a little snarky on occasion. As others have mentioned. If you leave it...

Dr Diff covers one reason the 741 is better. Never broke a 741 pinion. Had a couple 742 and 489 break right at the riser. The other... ALL of the rears share the same ring gears and poor deflection characteristics/weak caps. None of which are be solved by a big pinion bearing.

I do love this old thread and the weak/strong BS that is sold to everyone. None of the stuff regarding the pinion addresses the real weakness of the 8.75 units. But that suspect info sure drives the prices of certain cases up a lot. LOL Reality is, one of them has the least amount of design...

Make sure you pull the china wall pins out if using only sealer at each end.

If you have the 4 speed stuff in the car already and are swapping to the lakewood make sure of the following. Happy with the clutch pedal feel and engagement with the stock bellhousing? If so, measure the distance from the flywheel face to clutch fork pivot bracket of your stock set up. Then...

Next time you do this cam break in stuff. IGNORE the idle timing number. Get the thing started, run it up to 2500 rpm and put 35-40 of timing in it. That will keep the temps down. Total timing doesn't really matter as the engine has ZERO Load on it. Setting idle timing at 10 degrees and...

Canada, that explains it, only 75% :canada:

With 60* air 30" Baro, I'd expect a REALLY humid environment to get a 10% factor or serious altitude. Says "Dry Air" Something is amiss.

Only US drivers side is narrower. Pass side should be same for the LA's

There should be a slope chart for the springs allowing advance curve.

I'll guess still has a vacuum leak or not enough idle timing. I'd give the thing more timing, twist distributor CCW a little at a time, then lower the idle speed until you can get it under control in the 700 rpm range. You might have to hillbilly timing tape the balancer so you can use the...

I also always disconnect everything from the intake that draw vacuum to eliminate it as an issue. Power Brakes plenty of times can cause idle issues with a leaky booster or lines. Reconnect one at a time and wait a minute to see if the idle changes. Good on fixing the vacuum leak. Have to...

A little rule that I live by: Carb doesn't effects timing settings, timing ALWAYS effects carb settings. Simple test. At idle, if you twist the distributor CCW and the engine picks up RPM, it wants the timing. As long as the car can start when hot without kicking back on your starter, you...

Correct, you would need to limit mechanical advance in the distributor. weld slots, JB weld, FBO limiter plate, adjust stops.n Don't know internals of the petronix distributor. Could be very easy to do. I would find the point that the engine likes at idle. Then you can adjust to hit total...

Total timing at *** RPM is a horrible method to time a street car engine. Here's why. Two distributors, one with 18* advance the other with 28* advance. Those distributors will have VASTLY different performance characteristics, especially at idle and off idle into transition circuits. IMO...

Never, EVER, trust the markings on a chain set... EVER... If you are going to move it verify that your cam is in the proper position with a degree wheel again.

Don't have to cut anything off the bit. Use the shank and hold the fluting. Set gap in window and tighten the lock screw.

The issue with that is I can hand you two distributors and setting it the total method, no pinging, you'll get entirely different idle qualities. One will be much snappier off idle too. Most cars timed using total method, especially with a decent sized camshaft, smell like a gasoline truck...

Drill bit shanks work great instead of those mallory keys. There is a post somewhere with the degrees and keyway width. Have to limit mechanical in the distributor to get the idle correct. Idle is the foundation, total is the roof in house building terms. Which do you get right first...