Search results for query: *

That list has some incorrect info in it. Torque rocker shaft bolts on a LA SB to 30 and you'll have mashed shafted and/or broken bolts. It's 200 inch lbs which is ~17ft lbs

All 8.75 ratios use the same ring gear across all the cases. Pinion is different. Weak spot, ring gear... and the dr side cap.

Exactly... that bigger round thing and deflection...

741 weakness vs 742 or 489 is one of the biggest red herring jokes in mopar land. The pinion bearings isn't the weak point in ANY of the cases. Don't pay any attention to the stress riser on 489 and 742 pinions... LOL

too much cruise timing, lean, maybe old fuel that's lost volatility. If it has vacuum advance, try plugging it and see if the surge goes away.

Vacuum advance is in additional to any advance from initial and mechanical. You set TOTAL for what WIDE OPEN THROTTLE would represent, which should NEVER have vacuum advance involved in real world applications. You also can't pick a rpm number out of thin air and say set timing to 36* at...

good article except for the FMJ nonsense.

12* with a 284/484 seems kind of light. I'd bump up the timing (18-20 range), reset idle and see if the stumble goes away. Just don't go pounding the throttle. See if it corrects the issue, then adjust for total.

Sent you an email... Thanks

@dart4forte Got your text and emptied some PM space best I could. I have space in my PM box currently, the stupid 15 limit gets me most of the time. UGH... Sorry if I missed anyone. I think the best thing is to tag me in a thread and I'll get alert notifications and can respond. @VFilms...

Get a good idle timing profile and advance curve on it. That will make the ability get the idle down a lot easier. If it's timed by the book, it's not close to optimal.

Yes... Since the K also has the lower suspension attached to it, you lose the ability to easily change a bent k frame. It happens. Seen plenty of lower control arm pin tubes knocked out as well. Sometimes trying to make things better has bad consequences, IMO, this is one of those "just say...

PM sent. For a pair of cables, usually around 150-160 delivered in the US Same as my relay kits, you want a different length, I do that without any upcharge if the battery is in stock under hood location. Some folks like to reroute with headers, etc.

Halogens are H5001 and H5006

Yeah, wish I knew too... :thumbsup:

I crimp, solder is not a great conductor. I can insert 8 or 10ga aux wires off both pos and negative post lugs. I use only US made copper wire as well. Cost more, but, the quality and stranding is correct. Seen far too many china wire samples that had heavy insulation and 1-2 steps down in...

Yes, I make cables from 1/0 welding cable. I also will build to spec, want a longer cable to run off firewall with headers, no problem. They perform much better than any OEM replacement will, don't have the factory look. This set was done for a member here, 68 GTX. Looks like I hadn't...

4 speed which makes things easier

If you aren't subject to smog testing, throw the factory specs in the garbage and tune the engine for what it wants. It takes some work altering mechanical timing, etc, but, the benefits are great.

Yes a holdover from the earlier engine. If you think you are getting .450 lift from your cam lift .300 x rocker ratio 1.5 at the valve with these angle, you got another thing coming. The 59* angle is detrimental to actual valve lift.