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Had this guy rebuild a few prop valves for me over the years that were not available/discontinued. Does great work, turn around was pretty quick. Brakes! Old Auto LLc -

Lengthening the pushrod at first didn't sound right; as it would maybe make things worse -- but truth was it was not the proper length to start with to setup the MC to apply the brakes correctly. I've seen alot of threads on here questioning the booster pushrod length, and it may be different...

This is the MC/booster kit I used. It is what would have been on 66-72 front disc/rear drum with BB. 66-69 Mopar B Body 8 Inch Dual Bendix Brake Booster Kit

Thanks for all your inputs guys. Cass over at Dr. Diff saved the day. Big shout out to him. It was the booster push rod; not adjusted correctly. Cass told me to adjust the rod on the booster so that the piston on the MC was flush with the mounting pad and not sticking out of the MC when...

I just ordered a pressure gauge. It should be here tomorrow. I'll follow up.

The calipers are pictured below. Used on many 80s 90s Dodge vehicles. MC and booster are 67-72 Bendix style for cars equipped with disc/drum brakes. This setup was put together with the help of Dr Diff. The master is a 1.125 bore. Plenty. As far as the rear brake adjustment, I understand that...

Rears get hot no matter where it's driven, unless I very sparingly use the brakes.

Yes, did the complete conversion with pedal linkage. OE style.

Just the single prop valve. 72 and up style. Yes bottom three inches of pedal the front applies. New factory disc brake MC used 66-72. It was difficult to bleed them when everything was assembled. Could be a MC issue. I bench bled the MC and vacuum bled the system as well as manual. Pedal felt...

Then all the plumbing is correct. I'm wondering if the prop valve is stuck. It is brand new, but that doesn't always mean it's good.

Plumbed just like the diagram below. There are no markings on the MC for front or rear though.

This is the prop valve I have. This replaced the old distribution block for the drum brakes. This was part of the disc conversion. From the diagram I have it is plumbed correctly. I am suspicious that the MC may be plumbed backwards the way things are working.

Front brakes apply at the bottom of the pedal with the rears backed off. Seems the rears are being applied 3/4 of the pedal travel. Shouldnt it be opposite? The lines were custom made so I'm trying to make sure I've got the correct ports hooked up on the master.

Everything is new. All hoses and lines.

No; there is no dragging that I can see. Backed them all the way off today; ran it up in the air; brakes applied, released no problem. Ran cooler backed all the way off but still too hot for an 8 mile drive.

Generally, seems like they are doing all the work.

Front disc rear drum. Originally manual 4 wheel drum. Upgraded fronts to disc -- 90's style single piston calipers -- and kept rear drum brakes. Added Bendix style power brake booster and master along with it; Added 72 and newer style 1 piece prop valve; with brake line kit from Dr...

Want to make sure it's not reversed on this master. I've seen some where front port under small reservoir goes to front brakes, rear goes to rear..... The way the pedal feels; rear brakes are doing all the work....

Silly question..... I'm chasing a rear brake overheating issue on my car. Question is, which ports on this master go to the front, and which go to the rear? Car was converted recently to Bendix style master and power booster. Left outlets. I want to make sure this is right before I go...

Got it all buttoned up this morning, took her for a test drive, she now stops on a dime; great results after all the drama; manual brake guys; sorry; manual brakes suck; LOL.