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In other words, the assembled pic is all you need. Two bushings, two washers and a sleeve. That light one is extra, or from something else.

I have no experience with Poly myself. Are they designed that way? Seems obvious that if the bore isn't smooth then that would be the cause of the OP's part failure. That alone would make me want to use standard rubber. Upgrades are great, but sometimes if you deviate from design, you're...

This might be a silly question but- any chance the LCA nuts were tightened before the height and weight was set? It's the only thing the FSM notes to do when setting up LCA's.

Disc, drum? We need more info. Likely needs fresh fluid. http://www.musclecarbrakes.com/

I'm not sure about the B bodies, but A body had an early type - had an intermediate cable that went to two equal length backing plate cables, and a later one that had one backing plate cable longer than the other. I may have that backwards, but maybe B body is similar?

So those appear to be 73-76 single piston calipers, likely from an A body or F-M-J, all were similar-ish. Original 66-69 B body was fixed 4 piston calipers. Anyway, pads should be readily available. Always good to have spares on the shelf. The owners manual recomends replacing the fluid...

Either way, the circuit is like the glove box or trunk light - bulb has 12v fed via a switched hot from the ign switch. Brake lever or hydraulic block provides ground. Key out of car, light is off. Two wires mentioned above disconnected, light should be off. You’re on the right track.

A while back, I ran DOT 5 in my Demon. The pedal was - odd. At the time, people said DOT 5 gives a different feel than DOT 3.

I like my pedal firm, like my next girlfriend’s tush. :lol:

Factory used different boosters for drum vs disc. Could be a travel issue.

Silver solder it. Might have been some kind of reverse-crimp, swage joint of some kind. The stress over time there is significant. You'll have to de-oil the area completely to get a good silver braze joint.

The piston isn't pushed back all the way in this pic, I know, but here's the opposite side w a pad held up to it. Seems like the tab should go over farther?

Nugeon. That was the other brand. I generally think of calipers as indestructible, save maybe a hone on the bore to clean up some pits. On Rock Auto, it shows both sides, L and R, in Raybestos brand but when you attempt to put it in the cart, it shows up as unavailable. I wonder if these...

I didn’t have a dial caliper with me, just two 6” steel rules. Rotors are new (as are the pads) and around 1” +. I was puzzled by the width of the caliper being 1/16” less.

Good friend of mine has a issues with some Cardone brand 73-76 A body calipers. New rotors, pads and the calipers, no clearance when assembled, he says it's a bit tight. We popped the piston out of the bore and measured the depth to the opposing side. It is 1/16" less then the factory cores...

If that booster is good, it should work well. Good advice from Greg above. That’s part of why it’s a popular swap. Well, maybe was a popular swap. Hard to find a disc A body nowadays. If your pedal effort is high, maybe a different bore M/C is needed, IF nothing is amiss.

From the 69 factory pats book: Group 2-10-78 bushing 1858 024 Same number for V B L R and W. When replaceing - watch the i.d. of the Moog bushings. There was a run that were the wrong size, it may actually still be an issue. I myself, and others on her have had ones that are "loose" on the...

http://www.musclecarbrakes.com/

Not so much the rear is high, but the front - T bars look low in that pic. Maybe take it up a 1/2".

Inside the input shaft seal is very low pressure, return area. Below that, there is a double o rig seal that holds back high pressure. Stock Mopar pump pressure can be from 700 to 900 psig. If the internal o rings are leaking, a new input seal will be short-lived.