Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
These bushings I use are indeed graphite bushings. I believe from PST. I guess a Teflon spray is my best option since the suspension is together. I will also double check the sway bar bushings, but my suspicion is that it's upper control arm bushings. You know... the one's you can't get to...
I've had urethane bushings in my cars for 20+ years. No matter what lube I use; it squeaks! I wish I had put stock rubber bushing in.
I'm just checking in to see if anyone has learned about some sort of miracle lube that I don't know about.
So just to wrap up this thread. During brake bleeding I found the pedal wasn't returning all the way. The piston was hanging up. So.... I simply replaced the master cylinder. I got a Strange Engineering. The problem is gone. Bye, bye...
Thanks for the input on this!
I started having a strange issue with my brakes and wanted to get input before I start throwing money at parts.
I did the Richard Ehrenberg Disc-o-tech upgrade on my '64 Polara. Basically it's big later model B-body discs up front with the pin mounted calipers. Rear brakes are 10" drums...
Why are there different bore sizes for disc brake master cylinders? I need to replace mine and don't remember what the reason is for the different sizes. Thanks!!
Mancini lists a 1.125" and a 1.032".
I have the numbers for the A-body units. After looking at the various suspension websites... Firm Feel, Just Suspension etc., I've concluded that they use the same length for A and B body cars.
So, it looks like I answered my own question, but here are the numbers in case anyone here wants...