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Dr.Diff. I'm a big fan... Never let me down.

What is the timing?

If the engine and tranny are in the car still... get under the engine and try to move the crank fore and aft just to check what level of movement/clearance you have (there should be a little). If you have none... something could be bound up. If you have a lot then that confirms the need to...

LOL!! A f-ton better than a screwdriver :) I'm getting one!

The floating pin is only easy to mess up because you fail to put the locking rings in or correctly. If so, the pin would slap the cylinder wall... but would that create a consistent knocking? and without spark? Dunno. As for press fit... it's super easy to jack that up because it's easy to...

Ok... cool... we can move away from the flywheel, fuel pump, pulleys, and drive gear/bushing. - As for the oil pump. I'm all about the gasket because if there is a leak, well you won't know other than low oil psi. Nevertheless, if the internal and/or the outer rotors are worn badly or loose...

@72RobCharger ... ok... I'm going crazy over here :) In summary... just generalizing where we're at... - timing is ok and no change if advanced or retarded (seems to "reduce" the pre-ignition concern) - no change when pulling plug wires one at a time (seems to eliminate rod or piston problems...

wow... ok... you can definitely hear it. If I was right there with you I would... 1) check timing to see what total is just to be sure. 2) start pulling plug wires cylinder by cylinder and reving to see if it goes away There is a tiny part of me that thinks it's in the piston (wrist pin...

If the crank is a bit "lose" fore and aft the engine will still last - in fact, some high horsepower motors will have a touch of extra clearance on the thrust bearing. But if too much eventually that thrust bearing will give in to the beating and it will progressively get louder. The engine will...

Hmm... i know it's crazy... but is there a crack in the torque converter?

Check the crank seat... basically, how far forward and aft does it move when not running. Some engines, if built a little lose, will have a crank knock at around 2500-3000 due to thrust bearing clearance. Will sound like a rod knock. HTH

YOU BET! Thanks for the note. And thank you for the book... everything I know about 727 is from that book!

Yes you can change the rear seal with the engine in the car... I've done to several of mine. While technically not always necessary, but it's typically easier to remove the oil pan once you drop the drag link. Anyway, it's totally doable... it's just a bit of a tight space.

TTI - HIGHLY recommended... they're excellent. Hooker - Very, very good and the best of the rest. I have TTI on my 66 Charger with a 440 and Hooker on my 67 Coronet with a 400. Very happy with both.

I purchased two... Carl Munroe's book has more history, numbers, and comes across more organic - easy read and easy to follow - and has a whole section on performance, which is excellent. I use this book for more insights and tweaks. Tom Hand's book is very, very good, great pictures, and...

Weirdly, I have more questions now seeing the pictures :) Just to confirm, there IS a hole in the purchase mount on the K member, correct? And the alignment pin on the mount is not lining up when the bolt is inserted? If both statements/assumptions are true... then you have a bad/wrong mount...

send pics!

lol - looks like I struck a nerve :)

Side question.. why not put on a set of green bearings?

That sucks. Like @Matthew J said... The machine shop offset ground that journal, which you proved when you saw 0.020 on the stroke. You could have them recenter the offset but that will get you way under on the journal diameter. I dunno man... I'd start with asking for a new crank and work...