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So, I suspected/expected that would be the response, but I think what we're really talking about isn't necessarily just time, but also RPM, specifically cranking RPM. In most cases, you'll get oil pressure fairly soon. Anyway, thanks for confirming.
I'm just jumping in here after watching the vid and reading all the comments. Here's my $0.02.
It's trying to crank at the end of the first cycle in the vid AND you can hear it doesn't appear to be getting spark during cranking... that's why (I think) it sounds like the timing is retarded.
In...
My initial reaction was a neutral safety switch, but that wouldn't cause the engine to just shut off driving down the road. I think @Dennis H is on to something with the bulkhead connector.
You're getting a lot of great feedback. When I watch the video and watch the clock the entire time, it looks like the clock stays stopped until the moment you turn the key back to the off position. Is that correct? There could be a situation where the starter relay and the start's solenoid lock...
Ah... good copy.
Follow the positive lead from the distributor... confirm where it's connected. If it's going direct to the coil positive side, then follow it from there. I bet it's connected to the one-wire from the ign that was formally going to the resistor.
There are (usually) two wires... one hot during cranking and one hot for ignition, which the latter goes off when cranking goes hot. Therefore, it's likely that your ign. wire is connected directly to the ign box, which isn't hot during cranking, but when you let off the key the engine is still...
So there's base timing (what the engine is at idle... aka 15deg.), advanced timing (timing at RPM like 3000, aka 20deg.), and together that makes for total timing (in this example, 35deg.). Do you know your advance and/or total timing?
Even though the dist. is electronic, it may have one or...
Cool! Thanks... I'll try to respond to your notes.
1 - Perfect. Thanks. Eddie it is.
2 - I only ask because there could be a situation where the timing is not advancing quickly enough or too much. Depending on your setup, I would just double check. It could be as easy as checking the springs...
You know.. I'm re-reading the original post and now I have a ton of questions... some others have posted as well... so let's get them all in one place shall we? :)
1 - What carb? Holley, Eddie, etc. ? Size, mechanical or vac secondaries, double pumper or single?
2 - 12 degree initial timing...
I've done a lot of searching here but haven't quite found the answer (i think).
I have a single wire alt that is producing 14.2v at the back, but only 13.0 at the batt. From what i can tell, the wire from the alt is going to the dash/amp meter and has issues and creating some resistance...
In addition to checking the shift linkage, take a look at the wiring to the switch and test the two outside wires in each position to hunt down what sounds like an inadvertent ground. you can have a bad switch (even new ones can arrive broken) or in messy scenarios the shifter linkage inside the...
I just want to backup what @1967coronet said. I had a recent issue - different but fundamentally similar - and it was two things... the ground strap from the engine to the firewall needed replacing. Looked great, great solid connection - not working. The second thing was the ground from the...
Okay.. I can confirm I got it from classic industries part number MD2138.
No, they do not come with instructions. At least mine didn't.
I did end up buying a steering wheel puller... I got a basic one off of Amazon. But once you pull the horn off remove the steering wheel and then there's a...
I have a 66 Charger. Just replaced my turn signal switch. I'm pretty sure I got it from Classic. But I'll double check. It's been a couple months now and it's working great actually everything works great. As you know so much of the wiring goes through that switch. Nice to have brake lights...