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They look like 12 point bolts, with the points rounded off from using an ill-fitting wrench.

9" of vacuum is iffy....... A vacuum canister does NOT increase vacuum, it only stores it. In this case, 9", so will still have 9" of vac. If the low vacuum is due to a big cam, then the engine needs a LOT of idle timing, perhaps 40+*. If the current timing is 10-15*, then increasing the timing...

Ok. A 'built' 540hp 440 is going to need some 'cam'......which gives less engine vacuum to operate the booster. A quick test to see if the booster is working: press on the brake pedal 10 times to remove all vac from the booster. With your foot on the brake pedal, start the engine. If booster is...

If you keep the brakes in post #1, new need a new rt hand spring...or bend the tang. It is about to let go. Nothing wrong with drum brakes, but I would fit self adjusters if you keep them.

It is not just the size of the pump pulley that is important...... The size of the crank pulley is also important to the get the drive ratio correct.

Removing shims increases pressure. A larger pump pulley reduces pump speed at some point could affect the output pressure. Guys! Sometimes the engineers knew what they were doing...& didn't need our help buggering it up.

Looking at post #15, it all looks normal. If you had riveted shoes, you would be almost down to the rivet heads.... Bonded shoes are the way to go, that is all we used for 50+ yrs. Check that your park brake cables/mechanism are releasing fully.

The p/s pump has TWO adjustable parameters: - pressure - volume Pressure is covered in a post above. Volume. Volume is controlled by the size of the hole in the pressure hose fitting at the bottom the pump.

Also, the metal brake line can get internal rust that blocks flow.

0.07" shim? That is very thick. When you add shims, you reduce pressure. The opposite of what you would expect. Rarely to these pumps need to be modified. While the pressure is regulated by the above valve, the flow volume is regulated by the size of the hole in the pressure hose exit fitting...

There is nothing wrong with drum brakes. Get some auto adjusters for them.

Most drum brakes of that era had residual line pressure valves in the outlet ports of the m/c. You cannot gravity bleed these.

Measure the OD of the torsion bars & make sure you have the correct ones.

It is a balance weight. The drum is two piece. The face plate [ where the wheel studs poke through ] is steel, the rest is cast iron. Being cast & not machined, the thickness varies; hence the need for balancing.

Also a good chance the brake line to the rear brake line is rusted internally....& blocked.

I have Edelbrocks on my car. Great ride, been on about 15-17 yrs.

Just use Silicon.

Wheel alignment. It's horses for courses. Some folk like to chuck their cars around corners to the car's limit. I used to be like that, but as I have gotten older, I am more interested in driver comfort/convenience. Happy to sacrifice a few mph in cornering speed if the ride is more...

Make sure there is no air in the system. This may not be apparent with manual brakes, but manifests as more pedal travel with boosted brakes because the booster is providing more 'push'.

Make sure the check valve [ plugs into booster & hose goes onto valve ] is working.