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The thread should be deeper than the thread engagement of the bolt. A stud that goes to the bottom of the unused thread with high strength Loctite might get you out of trouble. Worth checking out.....
NGK 5s. The 'K' has the ISO nose, which I believe projects slightly further out into the chamber. Using these in a 4 heat range & very noticeably improved idle quality.
Should run that NOW.
3900 lb car [ without driver ] 455 engine, under 600hp, Turbo 400 with 2800 stall c'ter, idles at 900 rpm in drive, 3.31 axle, ran 11.47 with RPM intake & TQ carb.
A lot of misinformation, as usual. You cannot change the dwell of the Chrys elec ign system [ post #18 ].
Low resistance plug wires do NOT automatically make more power. These wires are usually spiral would, a thin wire wound over a ferrite core. The resistance is that of the wire. When metal...
Sometimes there is 'no power' in ign. As in more peak hp. But very often there is smoother running & better mileage. Both of those factors are due to less misfires.....& more HP being made at those rpms.
Sebring,
A famous engine builder, I believe it is Steve Morris, says you cannot have too much ign. Nor can you have a spark plug gap that is too large.
Honda thought plenty of spark was so important that they designed an engine in the 80s that had a separate mini combustion chamber, adjacent to...
The problem with the 'strap' method is that the strap varies in width, length & thickness. So the volume of metal being heated is going to vary between brands of plugs.
The correct heat range in NGK is 5 for NA engines that are not run at WOT for extended periods [ eg, circle track racing ]
A roller cam has slower ramps, not faster than a FT cam. Up to as much as 40* of duration. After that the roller takes off...
Repeating post #8. The higher reading is because the intake closed earlier. Nothing to do with being roller or FT. When the valve has closed, it has closed, whether a...
Flathead,
A lot of misinformation in some of the above posts by people who do not understand ign.
What YOU did to find the best initial timing was correct & ...very clever. Your engine likes 28*. End of story, 28* it is....& should be. My engine has a bigger cam, likes 48*....
You have choices...
I have one I made similar to post #3. I used an old rocker arm & welded a length of 3/4" pipe onto the area above the p'rod socket [ for leverage ]. Have one for shaft & stud mount heads. Can remove springs with engine in the car.
All of these 'stall' numbers are.....estimates. The more tq the engine makes, the higher the stall speed.
A c'ter may stall at 2400 rpm behind a 340, same c'ter stalls at 2600 behind a 440....
This is the note in the B&M catalog on cter selection: ' Stall speeds are based on the engine...
I see this advice all the time: Call Hughes or call Howards. Do you guys think they have tested all these cam combinations to see which is best. Does Howard [ or Isky or Comp or..... ] have a bank of all the popular engines available for dyno testing? To compare how their new 390 Ford cam...
I think the cam you have chosen will work well for you. Bear in mind that the HSD intake was originally listed as a 0-5500 rpm power band. Now I see that it has magically increased to 6000...