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It is always best to use a shroud. The shroud needs to be sized to fit the fan....... You say you have an aftermarket fan.......if the OD is smaller than the shroud is designed for, the benefit of the shroud [ considerable ] is reduced...or lost altogether. Make sure you seal the gaps around...

Put the original Carter AVS carb back on. They work..

There are tests for fan clutches but they are very subjective & do not give a really definitive answer as to the clutch condition. Original 68 clutch & you have overheating??? It is a no-brainer: time for a new clutch. They are not that expensive. They clutches come in three levels: standard...

Any flat tappet lifters that are 25 yrs old would be suspect....... Cam lobe/lifters could be wiped. You would need to remove the intake & check visually.

Do you think the engine might have a performance cam in it? Depending on how 'big' the cam is, it will idle rough.....& a rough idle would be 'normal' if the cam is big enough. Consequences flow from big cams.....bigtime!! You get exactly the symptoms you are experiencing. Not saying this is...

What carb? What dist? What is the voltage at the battery, engine idling?

Make sure the fuel tank vent is open.

Overheating can be caused by so many things....[ assuming rad is not blocked ] - rust scale in the water jackets - retarded ign timing - lean mixture - too much clearance between w/pump blades & pump body. Water escapes past the gap, does not get captured to pump through the block - & many more...

Yes, factory replacement for the 6 pack. The 375 hp 4 bbl & 6 pack cams had identical lift & duration, the lobe taper & lifter radius was different on the 6 pack cam. The 115 LSA is not ideal & there are better cams now available.

OK. You go to 3/4 WOT & it shakes, loses power. [1] What happens if you go to 1/2 WOT? [2] Is the engine perfectly smooth at all times except at 3/4 WOT?

Crank gear put on backwards?

This ^^^^^.

It is not the static weight that makes any significant difference to performance. It is the rotating weight, the MOI, Moment of Inertia. You will see folks brag about how they went quicker after switching from a 13" converter to a 10" CV & claiming the improvement was due to 'stall speed'. Stall...

Put the vac gauge way. Always adjust idle speed AND mixture in gear if auto....because the engine is loaded when in gear with an auto trans.....& the mixture needs to be adjusted for that load. Adjust mixture screws for highest rpm/smoothest idle; use sight, sound, feel.

Post #8. No, not more oxygen. The volume of air [ containing 19% oxygen ] ingested by the engine for a given rpm does not change. It's density does; & density also changes with temp. One of the causes of detonation is auto ign of the mixture from a superheated mixture. Cold air reduces the the...

Yes it can. So can cold air induction, getting the engine to run cooler.

Your suggestion in post #14 is a good one. To make the test more reliable, remove one plug lead at a time & stick a screwdriver shaft in the plug socket. Away from the carb, lay the shaft on the engine so that there is a 1/4" gap to the engine. Start engine & check for spark. Do all 8 cyls the...

Make sure your strut rod rubbers are in good cond. If in doubt, replace.

I get the impression from the pic in post #1 [ the deteriorating insulating material between tank & trunk ] & the description that the fuel tank is an existing tank, still in the car & has not been removed to fit the sender.

Post #14. It might be a bit hard to see with any accuracy if the float arm is hitting the stops.....just peering through the filler opening. With or without fuel in the tank....