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With 48K miles, you WILL have a worn needle & seat. That raises the fuel level in the carb & could make the mixture very rich when the engine is hot. Get a new n& s, install, & adjust.

33 IMP, I wish, I wish...

Do they have a manufacturing plant in China, Vietnam or India?

Guess where $30 shocks are made....

Local boat marina might need anchors.....

Or metric sizes....

The problem with 'Easy Jam' ..er Easy Out, is that by it's design it tries to spread the damaged fastener it is trying to remove...jamming it in further.

But if the weld breaks..... Heat it up red hot & add candle wax while hot. Let it cool down & should come out with vice grips on the threads. If not, THEN try welding.

This is a longshot, but...... When I bought my Dart, I sealed all the drain holes in the rocker panels under the doors. Drilled a hole under the door trim plate & poured about 8 gallons of fish oil in there. Drove around the block a few times to slosh the oil around; chipped the sealant off a...

Beautiful car! Get a severe duty clutch fan & a shroud.

My understanding: the air slows at the windscreen base because the air has to make the turn upwards. Low velocity causes the high pressure at windscreen base.

Mobil 1 certainly leaked in my engine.....but not the Penrite Syn I use now.

I modified the early cable console shifter to work with a later linkage shift 727. I always liked the look & shift feel of the early shifter.

I always use the best oil I can afford & that is syn oil.

From the pic, the dist looks be in excellent condition. Weights need some lube; springs should be tight, not loose. With the engine idling, retard the engine 5* & test drive to see if chatter is still there. I maybe wrong [ was wrong in 1974.....& 1981....] that Poly's could suffer from cracked...

Sooooo, the engine has been modified but you are unsure of what has been done..... If you want to 'play' to see if it can run better, the FIRST thing you should do is measure idle vacuum, in gear if auto trans. Report back.

Just about any Chrys engine that used a dist [ with stock initial timing ] will benefit from advancing the timing. However, if you advance the dist......because it idles better....& leave it there, then the timing is also advanced at WOT. And that can cause detonation unless the centrifugal...

The info in post #45 came from Lars Grimsrud, a retired GM engineer. Reduce your initial timing by 5* & see if the noise goes. If noise is gone, you most likely have detonation. The fix would be to have your dist recurved, so that you can use more initial timing but have less timing at WOT.

Didn't read all the posts but a high probability that your fans are acting like a baffle at highway speeds. Get rid of them & use a factory clutch fan. Also, w/pump should be overdriven 10-20%. More info here: www.stewartcomponents.com

The holy grail...