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Did you change the MC pushrod? I mean if your new manual MC didn't come with one. No need for residual valves, I don't remember ever seeing those on Detroit iron of the 60's, 70's vintage. Don't know for sure.
Have you tried to define why your car won't stop? Manual brakes, power brakes, 10 inch drums. 11 inch drums, disc/drum etc. Bad MC, booster, bad wheel cylinders etc, contaminated brake fluid?
I guess you are using radial tires ? The old specs, are usually for bias ply tires. It's just me, but I would change out those springs, raising the rear five inches is a bit much, your car though, I won't tell anybody what to do with it, I'll suggest some things at the risk of fratricide
I used gasketed washers on the brake hose's to calipers. I made sure there was no debris on the washer mating surface on the caliper, but I had problems with leaks. I switched to the gasketed washers, problem solved. No, I did not Gorilla tighten the banjo bolt to the caliper.
Ok, the Bergman no cut coupler means I don't have to cut the steering column shaft, but it says to "collapse" the column three inches. I don't see how that is a safe option. Better to cut the steering shaft, and use the Bergman u joint coupler? I am converting from manual to power steering. I'm...
I'll be doing the same swap on my 67 Belvedere, but I have manual steering, so i have to cut three inches off the steering column to make the power steering conversion. I'll also use CVF racing serpentine system for the ac, and power steering. I already have their alternator system, i'll just...
I use QA1 upper, and lower control arms. They work great. Stock specs are useless if using modern radial tires, i don't think anybody is using bias ply tires anymore.