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As others have said, obviously clean, clean, clean. One of the problems with Holleys are that that they warp. Then you can rebuild them all you want and they don't work worth s**t. Once you get the main body separated check it for straightness. I'll almost bet that the body, behind the...

Kern, 1) I think you meant you got 2 MPG better with vacuum advance. 2) I think @Geoff 2 was just making a comment about locked distributors, but I'll let him chime in if he feels like it. 3) What I will say is a street car should have vacuum advance. A true race car doesn't need vacuum...

Kern, I think @Geoff 2 has explained it pretty well, but I'll try it as well to see if it hits home. Maybe a slightly different way will help reinforce what is going on. You need to get out of your head that more timing is good and less timing is bad. For optimum power, an engine needs the...

A rough rule of thumb is 10 PSI minimum per every 1000 RPM. Having higher PSI on startup and then having it drop once the engine is warmed up is totally normal. I assume this is with the 20w 50 oil. So with the numbers you describe, this is totally normal for an engine that is a bit "loose"...

The T shouldn't cause any problems unless it is plugged. As long as the orifice of the T is close to the ID of the tube feeding the gauge, there won't be any delay.

I misunderstood earlier posts then. I thought it was zero with regular oil and 20 with 20w 50. That's good - that is exactly the behavior you want. OK, so based on this (and maybe I missed it earlier - sorry) then, yes, it seems to be your gauge. but when the mechanical gauge drops to zero...

Your engine seems like it is tired. If it has very low oil pressure with regular oil, but then increases to 20 with 20W-50 oil, then that is telling you something. To test the gauge and see the health of your engine: Start your car. Forget about the electrical oil pressure gauge in the dash -...

In my opinion, you did the right thing: Walk away and rant about it to someone. This gives some time to decompress. Once you get a chance to relax, start from square one and ASSUME NOTHING. Start checking everything and hopefully you will find the issue. I can't tell you how many times I have...

You have one of two problems: A) The seal is not good and is causing problems with a stock setup. or B) You don't have a stock setup that is causing the seal to have problems. Another thing to verify (hopefully I didn't miss this in earlier posts): Are you using a factory intake manifold? An...

I said in the previous thread that I believe both can be made to work well, or work poorly. It's all about understanding how each affects the car. There is not one simple answer that will work in all cases. Compression, vacuum at idle, settings for vacuum canister and distributor, carb size...

Gary, Here is my Thermoquad in all it's glory - I run it on my 73 with my stroker 340. I run the original air cleaner (all dirty and skanky, but it is a near daily driver and drove across country) I have in my "stash" a plain chrome air cleaner. It looks like this on the car (and fits...

I don't think anyone, even for a 71 Hemi Cuda convertible, will care if the tank has been replaced. I had fine silt in my 70 Road Runner tank. It got through 2 filters and screwed up my carb several times before I finally got wise and replaced it. Cleaning/ coating a tank is difficult and may...

That's a bummer and some bad luck. Yes, replacing an in-tank pump can be a bit of a pain in the ***. One of the keys I have heard about in tank pumps is that they rely on fuel to help keep them cool. So it is better to run the tank more on the full side than to get just a few gallons every time...

I have a 70 Air Grabber Road Runner. I think it is one of the coolest designs ever: a functional air scoop that you can close when it rains or if it is too cold. It just looks awesome! I have a throttle body fuel injection system, and it measures inlet air temperatures. In the summer, it will...

My 1970 California Road Runner came with a Holley. If I remember correctly, non-California models did not get the Holley's

Fuel in injection works great IF it is designed and installed properly. My 70 has a throttle body FAST system that I used when I drove across country. Indispensable if you are going to drive a car regularly! If you haven't planned on it, I STRONGLY suggest you get a fuel tank with the pump in...

Here is the inside of a California 1970 Road Runner tank. Note each of the four vent lines go to a corner of the tank. The "box" in the middle is used to effectively lower the overall capacity of the tank. IIRC, fuel then slowly bleeds into the box, which lowers the fuel level and avoids fuel...

Like a lot of things, making fuel injection work is all about the quality of the installation. In my opinion, if you are going to add fuel injection you have to go all out. This means an in tank fuel pump, return line, proper fittings and fuel routing. If you don't want to spend the time to...

Rich, I'm very sorry to hear about your issues with the EFI, but glad you seem to be back on the road now with a carb. Some may remember all the issues I had with my FAST EFI system in 2015 when I built my car. Long story short: It turned out to be the ECU, and FAST tech support constantly...

I think this is excellent advice as far as the install (I can't comment on Holley Sniper vs. other FI systems though - I have experience with FAST). To strengthen what andyf stated, fuel injection is a detailed system, and you really need all components to be well thought out and installed. I...