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Who sells coolant temp sensors? I didnt see them listed at mancini or year one in an online search.

You need to measure current flow. Is your volt meter capable of reading amperage? Connect it at the battery and aee how much current flow there is. Start pulling fuses 1 at a time and see while watching amperage reading.

Then i would say those cylinders are not doing anything. I would start with a compression test. Based on those results i would determiney next move.

Is it any three wires, or three specific wires that you pull? What cylinders are they?

Yes, if the power wire to the choke shorted on the intake it would let the smoke out. Like it did. Should be a fuse on the circuit somewhere. Might wanna check that. It should have blown

I believe its because it represents optional wiring. Not every car will have it. Removing the terminal from the fuse box should only require releasing the lock tab on the terminal. Usually with a specific tool designed to do it.

Ok, try running a jumper wire from the battery positive straight to the positive post on the coil. See how it responds to that. Run a jumper to terminal 1 of the ecu as well. That way you can eliminate any questionable wiring in the car

Well, if it were mine i would get a fresh set of plugs in it. Change the primary jets down to a 68 or 69 and put a new power valve in and go from there. A wide band would be ideal, or even a tailpipe gas analyzer. Otherwise you will have to go by seat of the pants feel and reading spark plugs

What do the plugs look like? Your test light will not strobe if there is no spark going through the wire. If the plug is so fouled that the resistance is to high, no spark will flow, and no blinky light.

And it has chrysler electronic ignition? Orange box? Sounds like it could be ignition crapping out. Also, carb jets should be spaced out more. 8 jet sizes between primary and secondary. What how black were the plugs when you changed them? How black are they now?

We need more details on the engine. Stock build or modified? Assuming you dont have an oscilloscope, you will have to resort to some basic diagnostics. Do you have a vacuum guage? That will give us a pretty good idea of whats going on. If not, pulling all the spark plugs and checking their...

If it was still running, it was firing more the 3 cylinders. It may be easier to get a pair of sissy pliers and go around the cap pulling 1 wire at a time while its running and see how it reacts. You will be able to see spark, and you will see if rpm drops or not when a cylinder is dropped

Check grounds. Tail light, and body grounds.

Sucks your so far away. I enjoy wiring/electrical work.

Focus on the fuel pump circuit. You have 14.3 at the alt and 11.2 at the pump. Start measuring back from there. What does it have on that circuit at the relay? Then coming into the relay. Just keep measuring back at each connection till you get to the source

Should be closer to 9 volts running at the coil. I like the msd blaster coil

The yellow wire to the starter relay is only powered up in the start position because thats the only time you want the starter motor working. The other 2 wires that went to the ballast can be spliced together and then run to the dizzy. That way you will have power in both run and start positions.

Sounds like fuel to me. Has non stock cam, carb and exhaust. With stock fuel system.:gah: weak/bad pump and restrictive filter could be it.

Or you could get an alternator from a diplomat circa mid 80's. Might look better on your mopar

What kind of car? It does have a fuse separate of the tail lights, at least ot should, and goes through the switch on the pedal. Check that first. Make sure its functioning