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Do you have your heart set on a 6 speed? Unless you plan on accelerating in the 130-170 mph range, I find 5th gear in 6 speeds pretty worthless.
I've installed a TKO600 that I pulled out of my old turbocharged Mustang before I sold it, bought a Quicktime bell from Summit, and all clutch...
He runs a custom Coan converter. Remember, this is a street car...no reason to build a 4 door w/ air conditioning as a race car.
Super Stock has rules. It's not quite correct to say they do more w/ less, because the components required to make those cars fast are high dollar, and the time...
Well, car has gone .50s since that vid...
This is a STREET car that drives like it's practically stock...all w/ heads that are supposedly 'too big'. Street car on the race track, not the other way around.
364 ci, heads a tad smaller than max wedges, 3200 converter, 4000lb.
'Specifically' how...
I don't understand how discussing engine dynamics is silly.
I prefer not to focus on cc's, as it assumes the length of the port is equal, which many times is not the case. X-sxn keeps everything comparable. As far as dims, the LS3 has larger x-sxns than std port Vic, not MW, at least at the...
Not sure how to respond to this. I'm sure the OP is well aware of the 11 sec thread, yet wanted more input, which is why he started this thread in the first place.
I haven't stated any 'theory' as you call it. Pretty sure I gave a few examples that even include cross sectional areas for...
Please explain the Boss vs DZ article I posted, as the results are contrary to what you're stating here.
There is more to spinning RPM than a cylinder head. There are many details that are being neglected.
I'm using LS3 heads as an example, because I'm intimately familiar w/ them. They...
I like the MW ports w/ the filled floor if one could get em done..good port shape and no potential dead zone running up to the short side radius. To answer your question though, I'm not convinced that a MW Vic would be too much for a street car w/ a custom cam. The min x-section is a tad under...
Let the cam grinder determine this. If you run a solid, it will end up having larger duration #s than hydraulic due to lash. As far as lift, this will be determined by which heads you choose, if there is any work done to them, and what lobes are available to the cam manufacturer....
Yessir.
I was first introduced to this idea around 2000 by a guy who spec'd custom cams. The more I looked around, the more truth I saw in it, yet few talked about it. Also, as time passes, I see it becoming more mainstream.
I like showing people this article...
The compromise in this case is the automatic trans. A TKO would make this goal much easier to attain - deeper 1st, higher final, and no converter slippage...not as consistent, but it's a street car. A lot of builders also have to make compromises due to customers not willing to spend a bit...
I'd assume not having to 'put up' w/ much of anything. Barely noticeable idle.
I think he's looking for some kind of advancement over what the 80's books give him for 'recipes', otherwise he'd just build to those. I think he's hoping there've been some breakthroughs in the last 30 years that...
1. '300 cfm' is at a specified lift and 28" H2O
2. I think you're assuming 4 ports statically draw 300 cfm at the same time, which they don't, for multiple reasons.
A. 4 cylinders are not on the intake stroke at the same time.
B. Depressions in a running engine are not set at 28"...
It should only require approx 500 hp give or take. So build for 550ish for extra margin.
Personally, I would ditch the 727. Since mpg was mentioned, 4L80E or better yet make a move to a TKO.
Not sure why one would want to limit themselves to 10:1 when more can be had on pump w/ the correct...
I'm confident I could put together something much milder than anything mentioned above that could hit 11.50s easy assuming you were a good driver. Pump gas, noticable idle but nothing crazy, and upper teens mpg at 55 mph. The real question is if you're willing to spend enough to do it...most...
Get rid of the giant tires, they're just slowing the car down.
In your explanation you don't mention what brakes you're running.
I suspect 2 tenths should be easy to find.
If you're not using more than 200 or so, w/ a safe A/F, in my experience ring gap has not been an issue.
Acquaintance of mine recently went from 11.30's to 9.80's on a 91 (?) jet in a horribly mismatched 6.0 LS combo at a bit over 3500 lb. Stock high mileage short block. Keep the flow low and...