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Newer glass fuses tend to separate that way. One of the first things I do with a parts car is remove and test all the glass fuses. Then store the good ones. Take one of the tested bad fuses and tug a little on the metal end caps and it will probably separate at one end or the other.

The chrome box used to be good for 6K or more the original orange boxes were rated for 5K, but would go more. Most of our stock old big blocks had a 5K redline. Today's stroker engines and heavily modified engines need an upgrade to the ignition system anyway. Per your use, you should adjust...

When you change out the alternator, wire everything just like it is now. There will be a place on the square back alternator that is not used. That is the terminal you need to ground.

Newer fuel sending units most always need adjustments, and then they are only accurate at full and empty.

Welcome from Alabama, tell us about your 70 RR, and post some pictures. To your question. Are you saying that when you have replaced the turnsignal switch that they only work for a few hundred miles or that you have replaced the switch 4 or 5 times and they still don't work?

I had the same issue on my 62, and the third VR, was the answer.

:popcorn: I waiting patiently for the solution, as I'm having a regulator problem on my 62. I have never seen an alternator arc fire when touching a screwdriver to the center of the back to see if its magnified (indicates alternator working). I had the alternator rebuilt, but the regulator was...

As I stated in my post, the only drain on the original wiring system is the relay. Powering the fans from the battery will not have affect the ammeter and related wiring because the draw is directly from the battery. The ammeter and associated wiring only tells the alternator when to charge the...

As long as you are using a relay, I would come from the back of the fuse box. Something like the radio fuse. That should not create unnecessary load on the electrical system, as you are only powering the relay. Power the fans directly from a battery source under the hood.

Welcome from Alabama. First off your questions are a big mouthful. Not they are not realistic, but we know nothing about your intended use of the car, or any intended upgrades. Most of my builds are basically stock with maybe a little increase in power, so I am satisfied with the stock wiring...

Bad flasher?

Most AM radios were 2 watt. I think the AM 8 tack would probably be the same. You need 8 ohm speakers.

I also put a orbital battery in my 62 that is going on 15 years old. Nothing lasts forever, but.......... it's just now starting to get a little weak. As long as I crank it once every week or so it's still fine. After going through 5 or 6 of the lead acid reproduction battery's only lasting a...

The one in my Superbird is 8 plus years old and the one in my Hemi GTX is going on 4 without issues.

I have had great luck with the new versions from Battery Central Mall. They are lighter so they ship for less, and if you follow their instructions for charging and their use they last. I have one of the latest versions in two of my cars without issue.

Can you isolate it to one cylinder, or is it random?

One of a few things. It had a rear speaker at one time, or the dash harness isn't originally from your car. Also you don't have to have a optional radio to have the rear speaker option.

Black and green wiring in a Mopar dash are speaker wires.

Both 4 pin and 5 pin ECU's

Good save!