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Thanks for the info and pics Kern. :thumbsup: I will tune my curve this summer so this topic/thread really helps.

I got this one. Feels very plastic but does the job.

I got a timing light that displays rpm, very handy.

Hah, great tip! :thumbsup: The fast idle cam is super easy to adjust and reach on a TQ. :lowdown:

38 is too much for my engine also. Mine is happiest at 34 total mech and I had to adjust down the vac adv a bit to get away from pinging. 16 initial adding 18 mech, low comp engine, iron heads. I found a new set of the Mr gasket springs in the garage, so will try to change out the heavy spring...

Yes, though I have red many posts that fixed a jumping timing with tab build up. Though the drive shaft bushing is a bigger suspect...

Lock collar? How about adding a small weld on the Dist shaft key for better fit?

Following as I have the same jumpy timing at higher rpms. Im thinking about the shaft on the Dist not fitting the oil pump drive? I can grab the rotor and rotate it back and forth quit a lot. (Timing gear/chain is new). I have the heavy spring on and my max timing is far beoynd 3000 rpm, so...

What are these "plastic gauges" to check advance? ...sounds like something I need. :) I have an adjustable vacuum control and had to adjust down a bit to not get pinging at wot. (At 16 initial, add 18. Low comp engine.)

I am also running a FBO plate. I did put 18 as initial adding 16 on the plate...though the engine did not like that and became "nervous", hard to describe but you could really feel it when driving away. Lowering initial to 16 and adding 18 on the plate got it smooth and happy, giving it a strong...

True. But in this case it was a brand new Dist that varied, while the old used one was spot on.

I was curious so I checked the gaps on the old original one I just got. Yep, the gaps are very constant and only one feeler gauge blade did fit (in this case 010). A big difference from my newly made dist. Old stuff wins again.

Kern, does the distance differ much when checking with the feeler gauges? On my newly produced Mopar perf dist the distance varied a lot. I have not checked my old original one yet...

Great info in this thread. I just got this one that I am going to restore, taken off an old running 440. I also run a limiter plate in my car now, 16 initial, adding 18. Great little metal plate.

Small block/Big block position. I made that mistake once putting a dist together. Dead dodge has a good video, starts at 12:41

M&H here too, a bit expensive but sooo worth it with all the connectors and colors that corresponds with the original wiring schematic. I re-wired the whole car and it was not hard to do.

The alternator connector there in the top in your pic. You need to ground it to the alternator casing.

For sure Nacho, you were the first one that I found that advocated this. I have studied electronics in school and worked with it all my life. When I encountered my cars electrical system for the first time your drawings made the most sense, so a huge thanks for that. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the video. I went through some modding when replacing the electrical system in my car. I kept the ammeter cos I like the info it gives. Used PCB fiber boards as insulators + rubber tubing where the studs pass through the holes. Used thicker wires through the firewall and connected my...

You are not alone. This can be a real pain on some hard to reach plugs. I do what vance.dykes said. Take a spare one and plug/unplug it many times to get a feel and also to get a new connector a bit more friendlier. After that its time for the gymnast that lives inside you and climb into the...