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Under what conditions does it detonate? Normal driving, heavy acceleration? I run a Unilite and get detonation in 4th gear mid to full throttle or heavy load.

Obvious not the same transmission, but I had a Fordomatic in my 57 Retractable that wouldn't stop leaking until I put washers on the front pump retaining bolts. Not sure how the fluid got there, but the washers stopped the leak.

If its only a 1/2 pint overfull I wouldn't mess with it. 1/2 pint is not much for a system that takes 8 quarts

You need to do a bit more diagnosing before replacing parts. Might be as simple as a plug wire burnt on the exhaust and arcing to ground, carbon tracks in the distributor cap, etc. Do a visual inspection, what do you see? What type of ignition system?

Hold the convertor by the snout with one hand, centering in the bell housing, use the other hand to turn convertor back and forth and it'll slide right in.

It may not a return spring, but it will help the pedal come up to the right position once all adjustments have be properly completed. I had the same issue as original poster, previous owner put spring on pedal to dash support, no over center spring, and no spring on clutch fork. Installed...

Is the return spring on the clutch fork?

Yes, you are simulating high RPM. Great way to check heat related issues also, as this will get the ignition system up to operating temp pretty quick.

As I understand the RTR is pretty much the same as HEI, with an external coil. To eliminate the distributor pickup, ignition module, wiring, and coil as a problem you can do this test. Remove distributor cap, put a spark plug in the coil to cap wire, ground the plug, ignition on, hold the...

If this is an electronic ignition system you can load test the entire ignition system up to the distributor cap with a soldering gun or electric engraver, without removing any components or changing any wiring.