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Is that 703 cam the one on a 112 LSA? Something like .480" lift? If so a 750 vac secondary will work well on the street. Or a 750 AFB or AVS. The Quick Fuel has a lot of room to adjust circuits so that might be my first choice. Also considering your gears I'd stick with the 750 CFM.

I'm running a 4144 on my RR and had to lean out the idle feed restriction via Quick Fuel metering block. No other complaints. My outboards are a tad lean depending on weather and I too have the QF jet plates. One note about the jet plates. You must run a nitrophyl float (the black plastic...

I'd have to look at my spare center carb and misc parts to see if this would work, but my thought would be to use a Holley electric choke setup. Something like on a 390 4BBL. The one caveat I can think of is the vacuum port for the outboards. You might have to do something with that tube. If...

That explains it. Now off to happy motoring. In my experience with these carbs you can run 7 PSI (and that is what is recommended). Remember that float level AND fuel pressure affect the average fuel level in the main well and that in turn provides proper mixture. Do not discount these very...

There is nothing particularly wrong with the Eddy carb. Something is overlooked and it's a stupid problem. One of those problems is the floats must be properly lined up side to side or they will hang up on the side of the fuel bowl. Eddy carb float height is 7/16" and also pay attention to...

Certainly check fuel pressure at idle and while under load. Are the secondary jets the correct size?

It sounds to me you just duplicate the factory setup. The crank mode bypasses the ballast and puts 12V to the coil but only in crank position. Then once you let go and the switch snaps back to the run position you get the voltage drop through the ballast. Ignoring all that you can suck 12V...

There is something to providing a smooth path both in and out of the carb but I'm pretty sure you won't notice much difference if all you did was pop the adapter on.

The section of tube on the air cleaner side is cold air entering the heat exchanger tube. Hot air exits on the carb side because that heat exchanger tube inside the manifold is being blasted by hot exhaust gases. The result is like heating the inside of the black choke housing with a heat gun...

Yes! It must be or your choke unit will be carboned up and destroyed. That tube is a heat exchanger only. The air that is drawn into the choke assy by the vacuum that operates the pull off piston is heated as it passes through that tube. Some carb models have a 1/4" long nipple from the air...

Any heat tube type choke must have essentially a complete circuit - meaning the ambient temp air enters the exhaust manifold from the carb air horn (or in the case of the hemi, the small nipple in the base of the air cleaner) and ends up at the choke bimetal spring. It's important that tube...

Street car only go with the 750.

The emulsion circuit will not work properly unless the float level (really fuel level) is correct. Fix that first. Also, Holleys have an issue with the needle and seat o-ring going flat and allowing fuel to bypass the needle. Pull the needle and seat assys out and replace the o-rings. Then...

You can use Eddy "performer" carb jets and rods. Commentary: The new floats are different (smaller) as well as the setting and I'm thinking this might be a good thing since Eddy carbs are designed around the new fuel. I currently have the newer small floats in a pair of original hemi carbs...

Yes, opening up the PVCR and keeping the smaller jets will tend to give more fuel on demand, which is what you want. Power valve selection should be critical too as that's the switch from cruise mode to full power. Get the cruise as lean as you can and use the ported vacuum advance port. As...

Looks like a clean carb. If it came off a running engine recently should be good to go as he said. And if the price is no more than 50% of new then not a bad deal at all. 750 vac secondary is a good choice for a 440.

Every time you change the rod position you need to set the plunger height. Bend link to adjust.

Check accelerator pump shot and adjust rod as required. Note Edelbrock AFB float settings are 7/16"

Not uncommon to need bushings for the throttle shaft. The worst part is getting the blade screws out without breaking them.

It's not uncommon to get some gas to capillary down the throttle shaft bore with a few shots of fuel, and the looser it is the more it will be noticed. Throttle shaft bores are never super tight to begin with even when new. It also depends where the accelerator pump discharges and how the fuel...