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I put a Carter M6903 on my ‘69 383 4bbl last year. It’s perfect for my application…

With the pump removed, plug out and push rod in...insert a reference object into the plug hole (i.e. pencil, stick, finger lol) and bump the engine until the push rod is in its inner most spot of the cam revolution. Your pencil will slide in an out as the push rod rides the cam lobe. edit...

My small block does not have a plug, nor a push rod for the fuel pump. This is likely the case for that 318 of yours as well.

I remove the plug holding in the push rod. I do like to check the length as several folks around here have recommended to do that while the pump is out already. I'm told it's recommended because of some poorly made push rods that are manufactured these days, and the metal composition can be...

A little grease on the inner end of the fuel pump push rod will help hold it in place upon reinstalling. Rotating the engine so the push rod is on it's inner most stroke will save some grief upon install as well. Check for proper push rod length while you have it out already. Not sure on a 440...

Ed, it sounded like you had a meter question too? Forgive me if I misunderstood you here. In multimeters such as yours and the Fluke @T2R9 is showing…if the selector only has (1) position for resistance it is typically “auto-ranging”. Saves the user from having to know the range of value of...

Any record of when the carb was rebuilt last? It may be time to look at that if so. If the previous owner let it sit for any length of time, especially with ethanol gas in it, it may have had some adverse effects on that carb.

Where there’s a will there’s a way I always say. Way to get it done! :thumbsup:

Thanks for taking the time to post this for us BBD. I’m sure some folks down the road will find this information useful as well.

Agree with @PurpleBeeper. You can search for a filter using K&N's filter dimension search tool. Here: Search By Dimensions

You know what they say Dave; “The greatest form of flattery is mimickry”. Take it as a compliment.:poke: I personally can handle (2) Plum Crazy 70’s around here like that. In fact, I prefer more lol.

Dang right! :rofl: The poor guy

Is that inline pump the main fuel pump? Or do you have a mechanical pump as well? A lot of guys install the inline fuel pump to prime the carb bowl after the car sits for a length of time. In that case you may want reconsider making that pump automatic with keyed ignition. That’s a beautiful...

Hahaha, love it...

Well, I'm much more confident that what I'm seeing is normal for the vehicles' age and setup, but... My original question still stands. Could a valve or valves be worn so bad they could mimic a rich carb condition as in the "sooty exhaust" example here? Hypothetically speaking, could there be...

That article is great

Sounds like I'm in good company lol. I do try to let them run long enough to burn the moisture out of them but sometimes it ain't in the cards for the circumstances.

After either car warms up, the black stuff at idle goes away. Upon hard acceleration one car will blow black smoke, but not while cruising. Haven't put the other car through the paces just yet. And likely won't. Not into hot rodding that one.

Definitely going to put this info to good use. And whole lot of other good tips on there too I see. Thanks!

Ok, that makes sense. For a minute I was looking at things upside down in my head. Is there a certain amount or percentage of loss that is acceptable when putting a vacuum on it?