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I'd wager someone around here rebuilds them. Especially if it's an original item. Seems this place has someone or knows someone for nearly every aspect of our old rigs.

The ammeter is an integral part of the circuit as it's connected in series. If the ammeter fails internally or the connections are compromised, you will not get power from one terminal to the next. Without a multimeter or test light, bypassing or jumping the ammeter temporarily is one way to...

^^^^^this^^^^^ what @Chargerjase said. Also check the sockets themselves for any corrosion or oxidation and clean as necessary. Again, a multimeter can verify the integrity of those as well.

He said he had spark. With points style ignition, he couldn’t get spark without the distributor turning/rotating. A broken gear, preventing the distributor from rotating, would prevent spark.

And welcome to FBBO. Let’s see some pics of the Fury when the frustration subsides.

Vacuum pump installed on mine too for power brakes. Relay is the way to go.

Had identical problem. Ruled out all other charging system components. Wound up being bulk head connector. Discovered it by watching the ammeter while someone wiggled the connector under the hood. Threw a zip tie around the connection to pinch it enough to get me home from a cruise one night...

Had same issue with intermittent no-starts. Wound up being the starter relay in my case.

At idle it's typical to see the voltage drop with the headlights dimming and a slowed blink with the turn signals. As a kid dad taught me one way to test to see that the alternator is working is to shine the headlights on the garage door at night with the engine idling. A little bump on the gas...

13.5-13.7V sound like pretty acceptable numbers to me :thumbsup:

Not all square backs these days are for the newer style regulator. Many of the rebuilds out there use the square backs because of the lack of roundback casings from what I understand. So they rebuild a square back with one field terminal grounded(and clipped) for ‘69 and older. When they rebuild...

Been near 30 years since I've been into car stereos. The ringing in my ears is the only proof of it now lol. Some quality name brands back then were JBL, JL Audio, Cerwin Vega, Kenwood, Rockford Fosgate, MTX, Orion, Kicker, just to name a few. The output power of the stereo and/or amplifier will...

For the wiper and heater motor issues here's my thoughts: - Do either the wipers or heater turn off with their respective switch in any position? If so, verify the wires are hooked up to the correct terminals on the switch. - Are the switches new? - You can verify the switch integrity using...

Can you give us more info? Safe to assume you're working on a '68 Charger? Are you proficient with using a multimeter or voltmeter for troubleshooting? Do you have a copy of the wiring diagram to reference? MyMopar.com has a downloadable one if needed. Were these pre-existing issues before...

Pertronix 3 is in the Roadrunner Dave. Only been in a few years but no problems.

Man Dave, giving up on the points so soon? Where’s your sense of adventure? :poke:

15 years that battery was in that (4) wheeler. Bought it new in May 2007. Never ran the battery dead. I put the tender on it "for the heck of it" a couple months back as the ATV was just sitting. And a couple weeks ago kapoof. It was a Harbor Freight cheap tend. Paid like $10 for it. In the...

What???? First I've heard of this phenomenon. Do tell....please

This literally just happened to me about 2 weeks ago. Not on a 69 R/T, but on my 4-wheeler. Had it on the tender the last couple months and just brought it out to get it ready for plowing this winter. Turned the key and the dash lit up as usual. However the fuel pump sounded very different...

Download and get acclimated with a service manual here: Service Manuals – MyMopar - Charge your battery to full charge (approx 12.6 volts). Disconnect the battery charger to verify this voltage with a voltmeter. If it's not fully charged, charge it until it is. - Start the car and bring the...