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Aftermarket sheetmetal is like a barrel of rotten apples. You got to dig for the best ones. None are going to be perfect, but some are are close enough to eat. AMD for Mopars is probably the best apple in the barrel. By far, there are worse panels out there. Way worse. The sad truth is that you...
-Their 12v+ cranking power feed issue for the fuel pump, has been addressed a million times by anyone that has installed a CDI type ignition like a MSD 6A ect..ect.. And the ignition switch does supply both 12V+ on and 12V+ cranking, unlike their master electrician and bearded fella claim.
-I...
I ended up having to buy my parts and pieces used via ebay, and off a couple folks here. Different than a couple years ago, but just noticed they reproduce a bunch of it. Sorry, couldn't tell you how good the quality is though:
http://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=101-CP60401...
Rightfully so 3 B........ If the air/fuel leans out enough to where it doesn't ignite consistently, it can allow unburnt fuel to enter the exhaust system. Fire the system back up....backfire This will also happen with a WOT and a bad accelerator pump. A lean burn condition on acceleration when...
Sure it will.....especially if it's supplying an erratic fuel supply. Just about any carb problem that throws the air/fuel ratio, and/or delivery far enough out of whack can cause a big bang, rough running, or non-running condition when tossed against a range of RPM's. The problem with the eddy...
Is it chugging out heavy exhaust? Those eddy carbs like to shell out accelerator pumps (especially after sitting for long periods of time-like winter storage).
Those studs that 66Satellite mentioned are pressed in. You can drive them out with a punch and a hammer. Might be pretty tough to do while installed in the car. If you take them out, cleaning up the area a bit, adding some heat, they should pop out without too much hassle. Just replace with some...
Cool, a 383 statue...
Check Craigslist. I bought a set not too long ago for $25 bucks that just needed a couple cracks near the flanges welded up. Good luck!
I wouldn't think so 1969coronetR/T, I believe the 741 was used for the lower HP models, but I'm not half the parts historian as some guys around here. I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong.
Sounds pretty Beefy! 489 case should work good for you. Did you order an install kit? A 489 has a crush sleeve in the front, just wondering if the install kit has the crush sleeve or it's converted to the spacers.
LOL! No doubt...
They don't get much larger, besides cast #'s on an engine block. To give you some credit, they're usually buried under a 1/4" of grease, dirt and road slime from leaky pinion seals.
I have an Eaton Trutrac in my roadrunner and am sitting in the same boat as far as HP/TQ. So far, so good...I like it. It's not noisy and perform's like it should, when it should. Kinda pricey, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy another. IMO, running a few hundred more horsepower & torque more than...
It's been repainted once already, I'm sure you'd get a lot of folks arguing it being a "survivor". I don't think considering a car a "semi-survivor" will add any resale value to your car, considering "semi-survivor" really isn't in the vocabulary, resale wise. IMO, you'd be better off resale...
Here's an article about Torsion bars (including install/removal)
http://arengineering.com/tech/torsion-bar-tango/
Here's a link to a free Factory Service Manual for your car, which will also go over the entire removal/install & torque spec's of all suspension components as well as setting ride...
I'd jump on the GTX long before the 1968 Clone....
"Clone" meaning it is not a real roadrunner. It is a Plymouth Satellite made to look like a Roadrunner. That is why the trunk finish panel is wrong. Satellite's & GTX's had that style of finish panel for an option, a Plymouth Roadrunner did...