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PM me for more pics

I thought I saw somewhere that the glass is interchangeable for b bodies from 68 to 70 year models. I’ll try and get some pics tomorrow if I have them here. Otherwise they are in storage and I’ll need to go and locate them. I’ll PM you when I find them to send you pics.

Is that the strip of stainless that attatches to the front glass and seals between the two? If so I have a set from a 70 RR. I also have front and rear glass for both sides if needed. PM me.

The previous owner of my Coronet rolled them along with the wheel lip trim and it is hardly noticeable. If you cut them you risk the chance of water getting in between the panels and rusting. And with the lack of sheet metal available for us I would be hard pressed to cut. With them bent...

I've used a DTM primer sold at the automotive paint store but not that type.

What are you looking for? I have a bucket of bolts clips and misc parts from a 67 Belvedere I dismantled. I was going to separate and mount on cardboard to post in the for sale section soon.

This is what I used after wet sanding.

Maybe the sponge type pad isn't the right choice then, I use the corse and fine hair type pads. Cotton I think but not sure.

That looks pretty oxidized, I think it's past buffing out. But if there is still primer over the paint you need to wet sand some more, 400 600 1000 1500 then if there is any paint left some lite compound. good luck.

I went round and round trying to get my trunk lid alignment to an acceptable point. I never got it perfect, they just aren't made that way. I know you have a lot of work in the lid so proceed with caution. A bottle jack would work also just use some 2x4s to spread the load. You can go thru...

They are not actually needed because the top pivot holds it in place as I found out when I replaced my passenger side. Mine slid out the top because it was rusted off so I cut the replacement one off and slid it back in. I switched them because the lock handle broke off.

I think there is some adjustment at the door side of the hinge. you might be able to move the plate inside the door to get some adjustment. I'll look at a door frame I have at home after work to get an idea. I understand your frustration with one section when you did so much custom work on...

Sorry Ghost but I don't think the gaps on these cars was that precise. I can barely see it on the pic from the rear. Looks ok to me, JMO.

OK the rear panel is not reproduced so if yours is in descent condition then you will need to have it stripped and rechromed. After it is chromed you will need to tape the fins and scuff and paint it. You can see the way I did mine in the projects and restoration section 2 or 3 pages back...

are you talking front grill or rear trunk panel

Sorry I forgot to post pics of mine that I bent to fit. As you can see the letters fit ok but the slash is still lifted.

Nobody makes the correct ones for that body style. I had to bend mine but be carefull because they will crack. the letters fit ok but the slash doesn't. I didn't want to try to bend that. I'll post some pics tonight if I don't go to the track.

You would stake it around the edge with a point of a punch where shown. I've done it on a rear view mirror so it's the same principle. But I think I read a thread a while back that someone removed the mirror glass and tightened the tab inside somehow. But I can't remember who posted it or...

If it is a non remote type then you can see the ball that it piviots on in back. It is similar to the rear view mirror piviot. I have taken a center punch and staked it on the ball to tighten it up. move the mirror all the way to one side and stake it on the same edge. then do the opposite...

I have used acrylic enamel paint w/hardener on my first 2 cars I painted with excellent results. The second car was the R/T I still have and just repainted again after 12 years. This time with ss urethane. I also just did a fender replacement on our shop truck at work with bcc. It was...